It is very quiet in Refuge Harbour, Neiafu, Tonga when rally yachts leave.  We have had 3 rallies here simultaneously, one from New Zealand, one from the Caribbean and our own Blue Water Rally.  As manager at this location, this period of respite is a time to soak up the atmosphere and catch up on report writing.  Whilst that might not sound like much fun, I am doing it in a comfortable café in a tropical paradise …. So it isn’t that bad!

Nearly all our yachts checked out of the Kingdom of Tonga over the past weekend.  Just one, Gaia, has remained awaiting spares for their engine, which are due in this afternoon.  Pelle V, which was delayed in Papeete, Tahiti for generator repairs, has shaken out their racing skills and by-passed other islands to arrive here this morning.  We have quickly got them cleared through customs, immigration, quarantine and health, booked their check-out and fuel for tomorrow, fixed the restaurant for this evening and arranged a 4WD kart trip into the countryside for them this afternoon.  We don’t hang around when there is some serious enjoyment to cram in.

These kart trips are fantastic fun.  Even Boot and I managed to go on one on Saturday.  With a Tongan guide from The Aquarium Café (give them a plug – they deserve it!), you set off on a 3-hour trip around the island.  Apart from about 30 minutes travelling on proper roads, you spend the time slithering along muddy plantations, forest tracks and bumping over tropical grassland.  You see the villages and churches, wildlife all around and some of the most spectacular scenery.  But, you get covered in mud, and Tongan dirt does not wash off.  This rich red clay and volcanic mixture is so tenacious that they use it as an orange dye to produce “Tongan Dirt Shirts”.  We just had to get Cindy, in Tropical Tease, to produce a Blue Water Rally logo in colours that could be put on the shirts and now many of the rally are flying the flag on their T-shirts, with a positive local flavour.

During the 10 days that most of the yachts have been here, we have had a welcome party at the “International Paradise Hotel”, cruised around the beautiful islands of the Vava’u archipelago, had a Tongan feast on Ano Beach under the stars with spit-roasted meats and other food cooked in a hot pit, and barbequed on an uninhabited desert island with palm trees, white powdery sand and great snorkelling in the clear azure waters.  

Many yachts participated in the Great Tongan Dinghy Race.  The race is sailed in rubber dinghies, with only 1 paddle and sails made out of anything except a sail.  Sophisticated dinghies had masts of boathooks or whisker poles and sails of flags, tarpaulins or bimini covers.  But the race was won by Marianne and Eric using 3 umbrellas for wind power!  So much for sophistication.  Yachts have had plenty of time to creep off to deserted anchorages amongst some of the lush and most beautiful islands in the world.  What a life, eh!

Mind you, the lush vegetation here requires a lot of water and we had plenty of rain in the first week. But  June 21st was the official start of winter.  With it, the sun came out, the temperatures soared and we all dried out.  Sundays have been very special.  Tonga holds to deep religious beliefs and no work is done except for the essentials of life.  Many ralliers went to church and were welcomed with open arms and hearts.  The singing in every church is very special and much to be admired.

The people of Vava’u have been wonderful hosts.  Very laid back and at peace with the world, they have looked after our needs to the best of their abilities.  With so many people in town, and bad weather for a few days, the restaurants ran out of fish and beef.  But it is amazing how many ways there are, in Tonga, to serve up chicken and delicious vegetables.  The many friendly piggies in the streets knew the signs and disappeared from the scene … they are back now that the population has reduced and the fishing fleet has come in!!  The shortage of food did not last too long, and the beer kept flowing cool and long.  So, no-one really minded.

Now everyone is off to Fiji.  A few have gone ahead for various reasons.  They may find the anchorages pretty crowded, but we have reserved spaces for all at Savusavu from Thursday 26th and later at Musket Cove.  The 3-4 days to Fiji may have little wind, so they will be pretty thirsty on arrival.  Peter Seymour will meet them there and the locals will provide a royal welcome.  The rally says a fond farewell to Tonga, thank you for a wonderful stay, and the next rally will see you in 2 years’ time.