By 9 June Richard Bolt, our Support Manager, was reporting arrivals in Neiafu, the most northerly town in the Tongan Archipelago.  Interesting to note – Richard is now 23 hours ahead of us in UK and we are now made to feel out of date as his e-mails arrived with Rally news!

Most Rally yachts have been calling in at the tiny island of Niue and, prior to that the Cook Islands, en route between French Polynesia and our latest supported port of call.  Sadly, the weather for the passages has been poor, or even bad.  The Rally is now sailing further south along its route than at any other time and weather fronts have been spoiling the passage.  However, their stopovers in Niue and the Cook Islands have made up for it all with reports of fascinating tourism and some fun parties.

REFUGE HARBOUR, VAVA’U

Rally yachts will initially rendezvous in Refuge Harbour, Neiafu.  There are four island groups in Tonga, the most northerly being Vava’u, encircled by an outer reef.  The aptly named Refuge Harbour and Neiafu are at the centre of this island group and provide perfect protection from the weather.

Despite being known as the Friendly Islands, there is a story about Captain Cook’s visit to Tonga, which rather belies the name.  Having stayed in the Islands for more than a month trouble-free, Cook set sail enchanted by the friendliness of the local people.  What he did not know was that during his stay two opposing chiefs had been plotting how to kill him and only due to their indecisiveness and his early departure did he escape.  History may well have been different!  In fact the chiefs kept Vava’u a secret from Cook in case he took it from them.  So the world’s greatest maritime explorer never saw this gem of the Pacific!

TONGAN CULTURE – SO DIFFERENT FROM FRENCH POLYNESIAN

Tongan culture is completely different from that recently experienced by Ralliers in French Polynesia.  The King is head of the Church and the Tongan people are devout Free Wesleyans.  Christianity is deeply rooted in the Tongan way of life and Sundays are strictly observed, to the extent that the airlines do not operate that day and church-going is the order of the day.  Church singing is a really uplifting experience and dancing is very much part of the Tongan culture.  Unlike dances in French Polynesia, the Tongan ones are more restrained, with many ‘dances’ being performed in a seated position!

Tongans probably produce the finest handicrafts in the South Pacific – famed for the making of tapa cloth and their weaving skills.  Tapa cloth is made from the bark of the mulberry tree and Rallies will doubtless hear the sound of wooden mallets beating out lengths of this cloth.  

FEASTING AND INTRODUCTION TO KAVA DRINKING

Part of the programme for the Blue Water Rally is a traditional Tongan feast, perhaps consisting of many different dishes, ranging from fish and vegetables to fruit served in palm-leaf ‘parcels’.  There will also be a pig roasted in an underground pit called an ‘umu’.  Quantities are huge and there will be traditional dancing preceding the feast.

However, it is going to be a ‘first’ for most Ralliers to take part in kava drinking.  Kava is a traditional drink made from the crushed roots of the pepper plant and both here in Tonga and in Fiji kava will be offered as a welcome drink.  Kava is a mildly soporific drink taken from a half coconut ‘cup’ and is definitely an acquired taste -  as these photos of a couple of past participants will show!

CRUISING THE VAVA’U GROUP OF ISLANDS

As usual, we recommend Rally participants sail off the beaten track whenever the opportunity presents itself and there are many opportunities here in Vava’u.  There are several dozen anchorages amongst the islands, each of them with crystalline clear water and beautiful sand surrounding them.  There will be two events organised during this cruising period – one is a Tongan feast when Rally yachts will anchor in a spectacular bay and the next day yachts will head to a further site for a beach BBQ, organised with the assistance of the Tonga Tourist Authority.

Much to do then, yet plenty of time for relaxing and enjoying a new culture and making new friends, before cruising on to Fiji at the end of June…………….