Following Tony Diment’s report we have heard that the rigger did, indeed, arrive and assessed Zipadedodas rig as safe and a new boom and associated parts have been been ordered for delivery in Papeete. We are now keeping our fingers crossed that Tapestry will soon be underway following the arrival of her spares by hand of a crew member arriving from the UK.

Relaxed and refreshed, most crews left Nuku Hiva during the first week of April for their next major destination, Tahiti. The leg covers the Tuamotus Archipelago, sometimes known as the “Dangerous Archipelago” - a reminder of the near loss there of “Gipsy Moth IV” during our last Rally in April 2006.

Onwards through the Dangerous Archipelago

The Tuamotus atolls with their crystal-clear waters extend in a broad band for some 1,000 miles across the direct route to Tahiti. Each coral atoll rises barely more than 6 feet above sea level, may be difficult to see more than a mile or so offshore and are dangerous to approach at night. They vary in size from being small islets barely 100 metres across to huge reef-surrounded lagoons up to 30 miles across, such as Rangiroa. Chart and GPS positions differ in this area, so Mark1 Eyeball Navigation is essential.

The atolls may be considered similar to a saucer, with the rim being the emerging reefs, or “motus” as they are called in Polynesia. The necklace of coral making up this rim is separated in places by deep passes, through which the tide rushes back and forth, sometimes at speeds of up to 8 knots.

General advice is only to navigate between 1000 hours and 1600 hours when the sun is high and isolated coral heads may be easily seen. The rule is to approach with the sun behind and someone keeping a good lookout from the crosstrees or the bow of one’s yacht. Rally yachts also share information over VHF radio as to the state of the flow through these passes, but someone has to be first in to the anchorage!

Black Pearls and a slower pace for the Rally

Crews have now found that the pace of the Rally has considerably slowed down and most have nearly 3 weeks in these idyllic surroundings before arriving in Tahiti. There are so many wonderful experiences to be had that we repeatedly hear that crews really are sailing their dream. They have discovered magical lagoons with spectacularly clear waters and amazing snorkelling and scuba diving in the passes. They have met local fishermen and their families and, of course, learnt something of the world of black pearl farming.

By 9 April Heidenskip, Jenny and Hakuna Matata were in the fabulous small atoll of Manihi and shortly to be joined by Rascal, Stargazer, Big Blue, Zipadedoda, Marianne and Anahi. Manihi is famous for its traditional black pearl fisheries which supply the most prestigious of jewellers worldwide, yet Ralliers will find special bargains by their direct interaction with the local people. We expect a lot of these exotic jewels to be on show over the coming months!

Blue Water Rally skippers have a wide variety of options for their cruise through the Tuamotus. There are almost direct routes with just a few atolls to visit whilst some crews will be voyaging “off the beaten track” to the many smaller atolls which seldom see visiting yachts and where life is still relatively unspoilt. Arrival around 21 April in Tahiti with its busy, sophisticated lifestyle will be a real contrast!