Current BWR News

Note : for previous reports, see our Report Archive. Click here to see the report for Antigua to the Galapagos Islands

Peter and Val Newns of "Valhalla" have sent us the following report from Port Vila in Vanuatu.

"All the Rally boats that are due to come to Vanuatu have arrived with the exception of Fenella who left Fiji late as their daughter Lucy was not due to fly out until
the 25th. This morning Stella and Golden Eye sailed in to join Festina Lente, Onyva, Saoirse K, Paulina 3, Anouk, Pytheas, Kamala, Freewheel, Tzigane and Valhalla. ( Jenard left on the 25th for Mackay).

We have beenextremely well looked after by Yachting World who sent out lovely woven baskets of fruit, bread, croissants and a small bottle of wine to each of
the boats when they arrived. They have efficiently organized moorings and berths despite a contingent of Australian boats who sailed here on a leg of the Brisbane, Vanautu Mackay race and whose presence together with the Rally has the put more pressure than usual on berthing facilities . The weather has not been too kind with grey skies and some rain but everyone is thoroughly enjoying Vila.

Eleven Rallyers are flying off tomorrow for an overnighter in Tanna, visiting the active volcano there. On Friday evening Yachting World are hosting a cocktail and barbecue for the Rally at a localhotel. Then at the weekend there is Independence Day to look forward to before the Rally boats start to leave for their various destinations in Australia."

Although the Blue Water Rally is not supported in Vanuatu by our professional support team our friends at "Yachting World" always provide a warm welcome and act "in loco parentis" on our behalf. Vanuatu is only 500 miles from Fiji on the Rally route to Australia and provides yet another fascinating stopover for our crews as they "Sail the Dream" with the Blue Water Rally.

Peter Seymour, recently returned from Musket Cove, Fiji, provides these photographs

FINAL WEEK OF SUPPORT IN FIJI AND SOME EARLY DEPARTURES

Welcome back Peter and Val
Ralliers were delighted to welcome back Peter and Val Newns to the Blue Water Rally when they arrived at Musket Cove after sailing direct to Fiji from French Polynesia, where they had been delayed for 3 weeks with an engine problem. "It's great to be back with the Rally family again," they reported as they were tied up with the rest of the fleet and within hours joined in the welcome cocktail party given by Resort owners, Dick and Carol Smith.

Dick and Carol welcome the Rally
During the 11 years and 6 world rallies Dick and Carol Smith, owners of the Musket Cove Resort, have become great friends of Blue Water Rallies. Musket Cove is probably unique amongst our ports of call for the warmth of the welcome we receive. This special relationship ensures that Rally crews enjoy with full use of the outstanding facilities of a resort as well as yachting facilities with reserved berthing. Within days of their arrival crews were royally entertained to a cocktail party given by Dick and Carol on the picturesque beachside setting under a tropical moon.

Christoph gives a dinner for the Rally
To mark the Rally's progress over halfway around the world, Christoph Rassy (sailing his own Hallberg Rassy 62, "Bamsen", on the BWR) invited all skippers and their crews, families and friends, to a sumptuous dinner. The Hallberg Rassy dinner was held on the poolside verandah to the sounds of a Fijian string band where nearly 60 participants sat down together in beautiful surroundings.

Thank you, Christoph, for your generosity - a great time was had by all.

Farewell to Baccalieu III and her crew
There will always be a few departures from the Blue Water Rally in the Pacific for those yachtsmen wishing to spend longer term cruising there. This year we had to say goodbye to Mike and Donna Hill of Baccalieu III, who are heading towards New Zealand. Mike and Donna gave an onboard party one morning to say goodbye to their many friends and to receive their very many best wishes. Fair winds and good sailing to you, Mike and Donna - we are very sorry to lose you.

A briefing and early departures
Before each leg of the Rally the organisers give a briefing covering the arrangements for the next leg of the event. Sometimes these are held in the open air, yet at Musket Cove skippers were invited to their briefing in the Trophy Room of the Musket Cove Resort. Peter Seymour presented a memento of the Rally's 6th visit to Dick Smith, who in turn presented prizes for the Rally Photo Competition before the proceedings began.

Winners of prizes were:
Bio Trek ("Anchorage")
Saoirse K ("Wildlife")
Festina Lente ("Elegant Diners' Award")
Tzigane ("Crossing the Line")

We are most grateful to Messrs Kelvin Hughes and to GH Insurance for their generosity in providing the prizes.

Well before the Musket Cove stopover two yachts (Annka and On Top) had made early departures to seek out the delights of New Caledonia and to meet families and friends there. However, soon after the briefing Festina Lente, Jenard and White Wings also left Musket Cove heading for Australia. White Wings sailed direct for Australia, whilst Festina and Jenard headed for a brief stopover in Vanuatu first.

For most of the Rally there will be no further departures until 21 July when 9 yachts will benefit from special outward clearances conducted at Musket Cove. The overall cruising plan will be for a week or more stopover to enjoy a visit to Vanuatu, some 500 miles from Fiji, then to continue towards Cairns in Australia.

No position reporting for the time being
As yachts are cruising independently over the 500 miles to Vanuatu there will be no formal reporting of yacht positions, although crews will be maintaining a loose radio schedule for safety reasons. The formal Blue Water Rally radio net will start again on 3 August and continue until all yachts arrive in Cairns (anticipated around 13 August).

After considerable delays with mechanical problems, Valhalla has arrived in Savu Savu, having sailed direct from French Polynesia. She was met there by Onyva who had stayed behind to welcome them in. The fleet, which is currently cruising towards Musket Cove, is preparing a sizeable celebration which will take place on Wednesday, when both yachts are expected to arrive. No doubt the crew of Valhalla will welcome the opportunity for a little relaxing R&R in the bosom of their maritime family! We extend the warmest possible welcome back to Peter and Val and congratulations on their successful return to the fleet, no mean feat of seamanship.

The Blue Water Rally visit to Fiji is in 2 parts. Yachts arrive from Tonga at Savusavu on the easterly island of Vanua Levu, then cruise to Musket Cove Resort on Malololailai Island off the west coast of Viti Levu. We have recently reported events at Savusavu, where crews have been hosted by the Savusavu Yacht Club and at the Copra Shed Marina. Because of a forecast of poor weather the majority of the fleet arrived earlier than expected at Savusavu and have started to cruise round to Musket Cove.

Weather on the west of Fiji at Musket Cove has been warmer and sunnier than at Savusavu and crews have started arriving in the warm sunshine at this beautiful island resort. First to arrive was Bamsen and Saturday, 8 July, saw the arrival of Festina Lente, Spirit of Affric and Paulina. Others are cruising slowly through Bligh Water, made famous by the young Captain Bligh, who was then in an open boat having been cast adrift by the mutinees of the "Bounty". Despite being chased by local cannibals in war canoes, Bligh and his crew escaped into the open waters of the Pacific heading across a further 2000 miles to Timor.

Things are different now (!). Although the waters remain a complex area of coral reefs there are numerous anchorages en route between Savusavu and Musket Cove and rally yachts will be cruising slowly to arrive over the next couple of days - although the French contingent have stayed behind to watch The Football! At Musket Cove yachts have been promised berthing stern-to on the marina only yards from the yachtie bar and a short walk from the restaurant, bars and other facilities of the resort.

Tony Diment, recently returned from supporting the fleet in Tonga, has forwarded the following photographs :

Peter Seymour, Rally Director, reports (4th July) from the port of Savu Savu in Fiji :

'We arrived on Saturday in the morning to find well over half the fleet in and berthed stern-to in front of the Copra Shed. The Club has done a fantastic job in extending the available mooring area so there are now a total of 13 yachts positioned either in front of or adjacent to the Copra Shed and, of course, the Yacht Club Bar.

As usual, a warm welcome at Savusavu
There have, therefore, only been a few arrivals but a busy time, nonetheless. The officials have been extremely helpful and have usually arrived within 30 minutes of our yachts. The Club programme is extremely well organised, as ever, and everyone is welcoming us with the usual cry of "Bula". There has, of course, been the usual interest in the World Cup Football, with representatives here from both France and England. This meant the Yacht Club opened their bar at 0300 local time last Sunday and stayed open for the rest of the night, keeping the place in complete uproar. The same is likely to happen for the France-Portugal game and as we write the other semi-final is going on downstairs!

There was a traditional welcome for everyone on Monday - tapa mats were laid on the lawn and 3 Rally skippers (Donald Fraser, Klaus Schuback and Pierre Caouette) represented the Blue Water Rally, together with the Commodore and 2 members of the Savusavu Yacht Club, took part in the kava ceremony, officiated over by the local chief, Ratu Jemesa. There was a cocktail party afterwards with nibbles. Local children entertained the Rally with some beautiful traditional dancing.

An interesting programme
On Tuesday the Club laid on a BBQ and there was much "catching up" between the yacht crews as they sat on the deck in front of the Yacht Club and Copra Shed. Behind them the Rally yachts are dressed overall, making a very colourful sight.

For the rest of the week there is a varied programme, including local tourism starting today - including the fascinating Red Prawn trip and visit to a local village. As planned, most yachts will start leaving on Sunday 9th.

Last arrivals and Valhalla news
The last arrivals from the fleet occurred in the last 24 hours - Fenella arrived yesterday morning, Baccalieu in the late afternoon and Freewheel about 2000 hours. This morning (Wednesday) Onyva was seen in by myself onto the fuel dock and is awaiting the officials for her clearances. I was glad to be able to talk to Valhalla on SSB from Onyva. Valhalla is now likely to arrive on Sunday 9th, but morale is OK and they appear to have a temporary fix on their Autohelm unit, but are still anxious to receive their spare part. They will be in touch with us here in Savusavu on a daily basis until they arrive.'

GOOD NEWS FROM VALHALLA AND RALLY YACHTS ARRIVING IN FIJI

Valhalla is underway at last
We are delighted to be able to announce that Valhalla (Peter and Val Newns) is now underway from French Polynesia to rejoin the Blue Water Rally. Valhalla had serious engine problems in French Polynesia and have been delayed "in paradise" for around 3 weeks after the Rally left. Peter and Val have told us that, as at 27 June, they are 3 days out of French Polynesia doing about 5 knots in 8 knots of breeze. At present the forecast is for light winds and their ETA in Savusavu, Fiji around 9 July. We shall, of course, be making them very welcome when they get there.

A Warm Welcome in Fiji
By 27 June Rally yachts were refuelling in Neiafu, Tonga under the supervision of Tony Diment. Clearances were arranged and most yachts had left by 28 June en route to Savusavu, a tiny town on the easterly Fijian island of Vanua Levu. Here yachts will be met by Peter Seymour and the welcoming team from the Savusavu Yacht Club.

The Yacht Club is located in an old copra shed, which has its own dock and houses other facilities such as a restaurant, bar and shops. Some Rally yachts will anchor stern-to at the Copra Shed quay, while the remainer will be moored to buoys in the river. This is our 6th visit to Savusavu and, as always, the Club members have created an excellent programme of events to make Rally crews feel at home.

On 3rd July there is an official Welcome Ceremony with Ratu Jemesa, the senior Chief of the Island, a cocktail party and a "meke" (traditional dances). Undoubtedly the Rally crews will be introduced to the Fijian kava or "yaquona" drinking ceremony. Kava, the Fijian traditional brew, is made from the root of the pepper plant mixed with water. After a ritual clapping of hands, the kava is passed to an individual in half a coconut shell and must be drunk at one gulp. Ralliers will find this tradition is practised wherever they go as they cruise onwards through the Fijian islands. Whether they will ever get used to kava is another matter!

There are several other social events at the SSYC, including a dinner and a "Pirates and Cannibals" night - hopefully none of the real thing! It has also become a tradition for the Blue Water Rally to help to raise money for the Fijian children, who learnt to sail at the SSYC in their Optimists. Over the years the SSYC has produced Fiji Olympic sailors and will be sending young sailors to represent Fiji in the 2006 Oceania Optimist Regatta in the Cook Islands.

In addition to the various social events there are some wonderful opportunities for local tourism, particularly meeting local people in their villages and children in their school.

On to Musket Cove and sailing through Bligh Water
The Rally is planned to leave Savusavu on 9 July and yachts will then cruise independently through Bligh Water around the north of Viti Levu to Musket Cove on Malololailai Island on the west of Fiji. The Blue Water voyage brings participants into a clear relationship with some of the world's greatest maritime explorers and Bligh Water was named after Captain Bligh and his crew, who by then were in their open boat heading westwards.

Bligh and his crew were chased by Fijian war canoes through the treacherous, coral-strewn waters to the north of Viti Levu and narrowly escaped death at the hand of local cannibal warriors. It is interesting to note that Bligh still managed to take soundings for their lordships of the Admiralty during this dramatic chase! (Ralliers will again be reminded of Bligh's amazing voyage when they arrive at Kupang in West Timor some 3,000 miles away - the steps where Bligh landed are still there to be seen!)

Musket Cove and R&R
As ever, the Blue Water Rally will receive a warm welcome from Dick Smith and his staff at Musket Cove Resort and Marina. Dick has been a friend of the Blue Water Rally for many years and our yachts and crews are privileged to be able to use the wonderful resort facilities, as well as having stern-to berthing at the marina. There will be plenty of "get-togethers" at Dick's famous 3-Dollar Bar on a tiny islet where crews can DIY BBQ each night. A Fun Day is planned and there will be a Rally dinner. Plenty to look forward to...................

ENGLAND LOSE 2-0 TO REST OF WORLD

Tony Diment has reported (23 June) that the Tonga Programme is going well. The first event, the official Welcome Party at the Paradise Hotel was very much enjoyed by Blue Water Rally crews. Since then Rally yachts have cruised round to Ano Beach for a Tongan Feast and the following day there was a splendid BBQ at Nuku Beach. ( A photo of Rally Yachts on our 2003-5 Blue Water Rally in the same anchorage is on the Home Page.)

After the BBQ the "Blue Water Rally England" team challenged the "Rest of the World" to a game of football. ( There are 8 nationalities amongst the owners.) We were not sent the any details of the scorers or the quality of the football, but suffice it to say that England lost 2-1!!

Rally yachts are now cruising independently amongst the beautiful islands of the Vava'u Group, and will return to the capital, Neiafu on 27th to obtain fuel and go through the departure formalities before departing for Fiji on 28th or 29th.

The next section of the Rally takes only 3-4 days and is our shortest distance between 2 countries along the whole route. There they will be met by Peter Seymour and introduced to a new culture and yet another paradise for cruisers on this circumnavigation.

RALLY CREWS SLOW DOWN IN TONGA - MONDAY19 JUNE

Tony Diment, Blue Water Rally Director in Tonga has reported having been very busy for the last few days with the arrival of most Rally yachts in the beautiful harbour of Neiafu. Thanks to the cooperation of local company, Beluga Diving, all our yachts have been given deepwater moorings and are comfortable in their latest port of call. Everyone is enjoying the slow pace of life - so slow in fact that, because of their strong religious traditions, everything closes there on Sundays.

Only a few yachts have yet to arrive - Fenella is due on 21st and Baccalieu and Freewheel are visiting the tiny island of Niue. Valhalla is reported to have set off after lengthy engine repairs and waiting for spares in French Polynesia.

On Monday Tony held the "Leg Briefing" for the next leg to Fiji on Monday 19th and there is a traditional Tongan Welcome Party on Tuesday in the beautiful grounds of the Paradise Hotel. There will be traditional fare and local dancers will entertain with their own special style of dancing - different yet again from other Pacific Island traditions.

This Blue Water Rally is no different in that Ralliers are going cruising as soon as possible amongst the many islands that make up the Vava'u Group. They will gather off a distant beach for a sunset Tongan Feast on Wednesday and the following day sail to one of the most beautiful beaches in the islands for a BBQ.

"More Days in Yet Another Paradise" as someone has already remarked.....

RALLY YACHTS DEPART FOR TONGA

After nearly 2 months independently cruising through the beautiful islands of French Polynesia it's time for Blue Water Rally yachts to head away on the next stage of their circumnavigation. The legs of the Rally are shorter now and crews have only about 1400 miles to sail to their next destination - the Kingdom of Tonga.

Conveniently set about halfway to their destination, the Cook Islands and Niue offer possibilities for Rally crews to break their voyage and visit two more countries on their world voyage. The Cook Islands have proved to be a very popular stopover during the 10 years of our Rallies - the locals are very welcoming and as a major tourist destination the facilities are good, although our yachts may find it a tight squeeze in the tiny harbour at Rarotonga. Some shallower draught yachts will head instead to the island of Aitutaki, part of the Cook Islands group described as "a gem" by previous Ralliers who have gone there.

Some yachts are intending to visit Niue - a tiny island also on the route. Almost a forgotten island in the central Pacific, Niue hit the world headlines in 2004 when it was almost entirely devastated by a hurricane. The islanders have made a remarkable comeback and the Niue Yacht Club and local community have promised a very warm welcome to any of our crews that visit.

The Kingdom of Tonga consists of 4 main island groups and the Blue Water Rally yachts will head for Vava'u, the most northerly. Vava'u is encircled by a reef and the islands offer some very pleasant day sailing with numerous anchorages and beautiful beaches. Rally Support in the form of Tony Diment will be awaiting the arrival of Rally crews from 16 June and a fascinating programme includes a Tongan Feast and a Rally rendezvous and beach barbecue on a deserted tropical beach.

Rally yachts start a roll call each day from 3 June and will report their positions twice weekly thereafter. We shall publish these as they are received until the fleet is "all in" at Vava'u.

A complication on this leg is the fact that yachts cross the International Dateline and time will change by 23 hours at a certain stage!! It has been decided that this will take place on 15 June and all skippers have been carefully briefed to change both time and date after the evening Roll Call that day. At 1800 hours on 15 June, therefore, time goes to 1700 hours on 16 June. At least noone loses their birthday on this Rally as has happened in the past!!

During the long night of the rescue I acted as the main liaison between the French authorities in Tahiti and the UK Sailing Academy (the owners of GM IV) and started the process of finding suitable contacts for the salvage operation. I was also able to reassure the crew members, who had been taken to the local police station in the village of Avatoru in Rangiroa, that they would be met and looked after on arrival in Tahiti the next day. The next morning I flew to Rangiroa to assess the overall situation, including damage to the yacht, and gave early assistance to the skipper and mate, who were still out on the reef with Gipsy Moth. This included building a shelter for the skipper and mate and rescuing the clothing for the young crew members to take back to Tahiti. (They were met at Tahiti Airport by Annette (my wife and the Rally Secretary), who loaned clothes to them in the meantime. The only complaint came from 16-year old Emmanuel, who felt that wearing jeans with bows on them spoilt his “street cred”!)

Gipsy Moth was the fourth yacht of the Blue Water Rally to leave Rangiroa that day. Furthest ahead of her was Paulina III (Bernard and Dominique Rocquemont). Much closer were WhiteWings (Klaus and Marlies Schuback) and Onyva (Glenn and Rebecca McMillan). Remaining in the lagoon of Rangiroa were Blackbird (Niels Jahren) and Baccalieu III (Mike and Donna Hill). Onyva and WhiteWings saw two red parachute flares at about 7 pm local time on Saturday 29 April, which they judged to be about 10 miles behind them on the NW corner of Rangiroa. They were by then in full darkness with a NE wind of 10-14 knots and a west-going current of 1 knot. At almost the same time as the second flare was seen Baccalieu III called on VHF, advising that Gipsy Moth had gone aground, were in trouble and needed assistance. (Baccalieu had heard from Paulina, who had received a call from Gipsy Moth by Iridium telephone and had already contacted the French rescue authorities in Tahiti.) Immediately Onyva and WhiteWings turned round and headed for the NW corner of Rangiroa. Neither Onyva nor WhiteWings received any VHF or MF/HF emergency calls from Gipsy Moth and, having made several attempts to contact the yacht by radio throughout the evening, had to communicate with Gipsy Moth solely by Iridium phone.

This resulted in a complex series of May Day relays using both VHF and Iridium between Onyva (no Iridium), WhiteWings, Blackbird and the local gendarmerie (no Iridium). The gendarmerie had responded to calls from Tahiti from the French rescue service there and were already commandeering two small fishing boats (around 25 feet) to assist with the rescue operation. Blackbird had been given a Lat/Long by Gipsy Moth, which initially indicated that the yacht had gone aground about 1 mile off the coast and for the time being the rescue operation continued with the gendarmerie working to a slightly different, but similar, Lat/Long. (The EPIRB had not been set off and the MRCC and local RCC had no other position to work on other than that passed to them by telephone.) In particular Glenn on Onyva (a French speaker) did a superb job throughout in managing the comms with the gendarmerie rescue team.

Whilst in transit outside the reef towards the indicated position the gendarmerie on the two fishing boats assessed that the yacht was on the reef rather than afloat, as had been previously thought. A landing would certainly have been too dangerous “ocean-side”, so the two vessels had to return through the passe to the village of Avatoru, where one of the fishing vessels was left behind and a dory taken in tow.

The rescue team then proceeded up the inside of the reef (no easy thing to do in complete darkness and given the continuous rows of shallow coral reef areas) and reached the point opposite the stranded Gipsy Moth some 45 minutes after leaving the village. In the meantime the rescuers had asked Onyva to relay a message to Gipsy Moth asking them to walk across the reef to meet the rescue boat “lagoon-side”. This Onyva succeeded in doing by contacting Blackbird on VHF, who relayed the request to Gipsy Moth by Iridium. By about 2100 hours Onyva and WhiteWings (by then around half a mile from the reef and in dangerous shoal waters) saw the lights of the rescue boat the other side of the reef and heard from the gendarmerie that the crew had been picked up safe and sound. As there was no more they could do, Onyva and WhiteWings were “stood down” and continued towards Papeete.

My account of the incident lacks drama, but I hope it helps visitors to our website to understand something of the incident and imagine it taking place on a very dark night, in dangerous waters and with the added complexity of mixed communications. One might easily dismiss the rescuers’ efforts because of “all’s well that ends well”. However, enormous credit must be given in the first place to the Blue Water Rally yachtsmen involved, who conducted the difficult and complex comms operation in an impeccable fashion and were prepared to take considerable risks with themselves and their yachts to offer assistance to others in distress and in dangerous waters - certainly in the best maritime tradition.

There is no lifeboat or rescue service at Rangiroa and on the night in question there was merely a duty gendarme of the National Gendarmerie and a local municipal policeman and Deputy Mayor to manage the whole affair. It then fell on them and on local fishermen to risk themselves in small fishing boats to effect the rescue. They had no idea when they left the village that they would not have to rescue the crew at sea and they had first to negotiate the Avatoru Passe, both outbound and inbound, with no choice of timing to obtain best conditions. For those who cannot imagine the passes of the Tuamotus, suffice it to say that currents rip in and out at up to 9 knots with standing waves, difficult and often dangerous to negotiate, even in daylight.

Some days later I was able to return to Rangiroa to thank Felix (the Deputy Mayor), his policemen and Punoa (the local “Mr Fixit”), who played an important part in assisting with the recovery operation. I also asked Felix to express our thanks to all those at Avatoru who were involved in any way. Felix assured me that “c’était rien” - I profoundly disagree!

A full story of the recovery of the yacht will be published in Yachting Monthly (July edition). We at Blue Water Rallies are delighted that the recovery and repair operation is going well and Gipsy Moth should return to the Rally in Darwin to continue her circumnavigation with us.

Arrival in Tahiti and a Yacht Stranded.

Most of the Rally yachts have now arrived in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, having made their separate ways through the fabulously beautiful archipelago of the Tuomotus. These islands are the kind that RL Stevenson dreamt up for Jim Hawkins and Cap’n Flint, and where Bounty Bars never melt. Millions of years ago, coral atolls surrounded ancient volcanic islands, but the volcanic rock eroded away, leaving the ever-growing reefs and atolls.

The result is over 200 islands and islets, very low lying, with silver sands, palm trees and thousands of exotic fish amongst the coral. Rangiroa, the largest island, boasts the third largest barrier reef in the world, after The Great Barrier Reef and that off the coast of Belize and Honduras in the Caribbean. However, sailing in this area is not for the faint hearted. Being low lying, the islands are difficult to see and recognise from any distance, each island is surrounded by a barrier of coral, just below the sea’s surface, with a pass through it to navigate into each anchorage. Between the atolls, the waters plunge to great depths, so there is little warning of approaching shallow water from the yacht’s depth sounder. You can read some first-hand experience of sailing amongst these islands here.

Many yachts, with experienced skippers, have come to grief here in the past. Sadly, Gipsy Moth has fallen foul of the difficult conditions and has run aground on Rangiroa’s reef. The crew are all safe, and the yacht seems to have suffered only minor damage. But she has been driven over a coral platform by the waves and swell, until she is only a few yards from the beach. One can now wade out to her. Salvage experts are working frantically to devise a way of getting her back to deep water and hence to Tahiti for repairs. Francis Chichester faced great challenges in her; it seems today’s crews face the same!

A number of rally yachts stood by Gipsy Moth in her hour of need. I have been told of Onyva and Paulina III both providing some excellent support and translation (over the radio) with the local support agencies to ensure a swift and effective crew rescue, Whitewings standing close by at sea with advice, words of encouragement and ready to respond in any way possible, Blackbird seeing the crew ashore and making sure they were safe and well, and Baccalieu also ashore and providing rearguard support at Rangiroa. I am sure others also played their part. It pays to be part of a rally for both moral and tangible support.

In addition, Blue Water Rally director Peter Seymour (a fluent French speaker), currently in Tahiti, has been the lynchpin that has pulled the rescue effort together on site. He has been the point of liaison between UKSA (the yacht’s owners) and all local agencies. He flew to Rangiroa to see the yacht, supervise arrangements for its protection and for the welfare of the crew, and has arranged local support to help rescue the yacht and get her repaired when she is back afloat. Annette, his wife has even been lending her clothes to the youngsters – I am not too sure that the young men felt totally at ease in flower-pattern jeans!

The news reports have not mentioned the Blue Water Rally’s part in this misadventure. However, the efforts of fellow rally yachts, on the day and night of the accident and during the immediate following hours and days, did a huge amount to ensure the safety of GM’s crew and to provide succour and support during a very traumatic time. The coordination of the rescue effort could not have been effected so swiftly and effectively achieved without Blue Water Rally support, and support continues to be provided as the experts arrive to recover the stranded vessel.

For now, Gipsy Moth’s crew and all the other crews on the rally are enjoying a re-acquaintance with civilised society. As at 1700 UK time on 2nd May, 19 yachts had arrived in Papeete. This is the first time most of them will have seen a city since February in Panama. They are moored right at the city centre, with shops, cafés, restaurants and bars on their doorsteps. Let us hope the credit cards stand up to the punishment!

Last night (Tuesday) the rally enjoyed a great warm welcome from the people of Tahiti as guests of the Tahiti Tourist Authority. At the event, the rally took the opportunity to publicly thank the mayor and people of Rangiroa, who so readily gave up their time, energy and facilities to help rescue the Gipsy Moth crew and assist in the recovery work. In addition, a specially warm welcome was given to Linda Crew-Gee and the three 16-year-old crew members of Gipsy Moth. They were each presented with Blue Water Rally baseball caps as a sign of shared experience and togetherness. So in an unusually charged atmosphere, a great party was had by all; it was a great tonic for all involved.

The noise and bustle of the rally’s time in Papeete will only be fun for a while and, soon, they will cast-off and head just a few miles westwards to Moorea – real Bali Hai country. Here they can expect, once more, exotic tranquillity and hospitality of a different nature to anywhere else they have been so far.

Since their departure from the Marquesas Blue Water Rally yachts have been cruising slowly through the beautiful atolls of the Tuamotus towards Tahiti and the Isles Sous le Vent. Made famous by the epic accounts of the great explorers, like Cook and Bougainville, the islands have a very special character and exceptional beauty. Bora Bora and Moorea are certainly two of the most beautiful islands in the world and visiting them will undoubtedly be one of the major highlights of the world voyage.

Tahiti and Her Islands

The Islands which the Rally will now visit are all circled by coral reefs making good navigation essential. Yachts will enter the lagoon surrounding each island through a pass, such as those they have encountered in the low-lying atolls of the Tuamotus. However, the islands they will now visit are often mountainous, with lush vegetation and their character is different. In contrast to the unproductive coral outcrops of the Tuamotus, the islands support an abundance of seafood and fresh fruit - breadfruit, papayas, mangoes, grapefruit and other tropical fruits, which make the Tahitian cuisine so healthy and interesting.

Whilst they cruise through the islands participants will doubtless visit Huahine, where they will see vanilla being cultivated and everywhere they will note the wild exuberance of the floral and fauna.

Tahiti and Moorea – Captain Cook and Captain Bligh

Blue Water Rally yachts have been visiting Tahiti and Moorea for over 10 years and Ralliers will at once be reminded that they are following the route of the greatest navigator of all, Captain James Cook. Captain James Cook has given his name to Cook’s Bay in Moorea, where Ralliers will be anchored in early May. They will also visit Point Venus on Tahiti, where Cook took the sights of the passage of Venus, so important to navigation by sextant. There are also reminders of Captain Bligh and Mutiny on the Bounty, which took place after Bligh’s lengthy stopover in Tahiti – perhaps Rally crews will understand better when they have watched the sinuous dancing of today’s Polynesian girls at the Welcome Ceremony on 2 May!!

The Blue Water Rally Programme – Cruising the Islands

Papeete and Tahiti. Rally yachts will arrive in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti and French Polynesia, on 1 or 2 May. They will be moored on the Quai des Yachts in the centre of Papeete and Ralliers will immediately find themselves back in “civilisation” – traffic noise, supermarkets, restaurants, bars, banks etc. Nonetheless, retail therapy and a chance for minor repairs on their yachts will not be missed. There is also the best covered market in the whole Pacific and, of course, fresh French bread from the boulangerie every morning.

Thanks to our friends at the Tahiti Tourist Board there will be a Welcome Cocktail at which a traditional Tahitian dance group will perform (eat your heart out, Captain Bligh!) There will also be:

· A round-the-island tour in the open-sided buses (le truck), which are the local form of transport

· A Rally lunch at the Tahiti Yacht Club and a briefing on the next leg of the Rally

Moorea.

On 6 or 7 May yachts will cruise the 9 or 10 miles across to the Island of Moorea, where they will be anchored together in the majestic setting of Cook’s Bay. Time now for local tourism, snorkelling in the crystal waters of the surrounding lagoon and just “chilling out” at the Hotel Bali Hai – the Rally base – until 12 May.

There will also be two Rally “get-togethers” before crews sail away independently towards Bora Bora:

· Lunchtime drinks and prize-giving for the en route photo competition on Sunday 7 May
· A Polynesian Dance Show and BBQ at the Club Bali Hai on Wednesday 10 May

On to Bora Bora – The Island of Dreams

Around 12 May yachts will cruise independently towards Bora Bora, visiting the islands of Huahine, Raiatea and Tahaa en route. Plenty of time for soaking up the atmosphere of this unforgettable archipelago, BBQs, swimming off unspoilt, white sand beaches and sundowners. The sunsets which will be set in the memory for ever.

There will be no formal reports during this period of independent cruising, although we hope to publish some pictures and stories in late May. Reporting will start again when the Rally sets off for Tonga around 3 June.