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BLUE WATER RALLY ENTERS THE PACIFIC

The first group of Blue Water Rally yachts completed their transit of the Panama Canal and entered the Pacific at noon on Sunday 31st January. A further 2 transits, on 2/3 February and 4/5 February will complete the complex task. The Rally organisers have been delighted with the smoothness of the operation. "The executives of the Panama Canal Commission could not have been more cooperative in providing us with dedicated lockings" reports Tony Diment "and, at a working level, the staffs of admesasurers and pilots have been highly prefessional and helpful. Despite some initial nervousness amongst skippers and crews the whole passage was highly enjoyable - particularly the overnight stop in mid-Canal at the Gamboa Lake. Our thanks to all concerned."

Yachts in First Transit: Akwaaba, Merlin, Vitamin Sea, Samen II, La Billebaude, Stratagem, Yo Ho Ho, Sea Glass, Magic Dragon, Rainbow Spirit, Augustina, Lady Rosemary and Rhythm.

Transit on 2/3 February: Moon Slipper, Anthem, Ocean Jaywalker, Nikita, Genevieve, Arietta, Tipolo, Caro, Scipio, Vagabond, Rain Again, Wandering Bowman, Lucifero, Tournel and Athena.

Transit on 4/5 February: Matata, Baker Street, Wayward Wind, Windfall, Windsong, Star Oasis and Tudor Rose.

PANAMA SNIPPETS from Tony Diment

Many yachts arrived in Panama with enough time to cruise the unspoilt San Blas Islands which are home to the Kuna Indians. The small island of Iskardup, about the size of a football pitch, proved an ideal base for Rally Support to meet everyone and ensure that entry procedures to Panama were completed with the minimum of fuss. The local fisherman were ordered by the local headman ‘to fish harder’ to ensure that sufficient lobsters and fish were caught to feed hungry Blue Water Ralliers. For four nights, as more and more yachts arrived, the Kunas put on a superb welcome. The lantern shadows of the pygmy-like Kunas dancing to their pan pipes appeared as demoniac elves against the palms and thatch of their huts.

All yachts successfully transited the Panama Canal by 6^th February. The only minor "incident" was aboard Brian Barnes’ "Stratagem" who fouled his anchor on the sea bed at the midway, overnight anchorage of Gamboa. Having laid the anchor where instructed by the onboard pilot, it proved impossible to retrieve the following morning and rather than miss his transit through the canal, Brian dumped his anchor complete with 55 metres of chain over the side marked by a buoy. Two evenings later, when the next Rally group were at anchor in Gamboa, Brian returned with Tony Diment determined to retrieve the anchor. It proved to be a true joint Rally operation with Tony Burgess (Wandering Bowman) providing a dinghy to get out to the anchorage and then with the encouragement of the Rally fleet, a Pilot launch was commandeered to start lifting the chain. With five strong hands aboard the launch the anchor was raised 30ft from the sea bed complete with a 1" cable and then recovered aboard amidst cheers from the whole anchorage.

With the whole fleet having now passed under the Bridge of the Americas and officially in the Pacific Ocean, revictualling has been the order of the day prior to the leg down to Salinas in Ecuador. The advice to completely restock has been taken literally and with cans of beer at 30 cents who can blame them! Two memorable social events took place in the final days before departure: the first, a cocktail party round the pool at the Miramar Inter-Continental Hotel, Panama City was memorable on two accounts, on the one hand because Peter Seymour nearly died of frustration when the scheduled coaches due to deliver everyone failed to materialise on time and secondly, when finally everyone arrived, a troupe of Panamanian dancers in stunning Spanish -style outfits put on a truly spectacular display. On 8^th February on the eve of departure for Ecuador, the British Ambassador generously invited the entire Rally to a Garden Party in the beautiful grounds of his Residence. It was a fitting end to a busy and successful stopover.

After a slow and rather frustrating leg from Panama which has involved passing through the doldrums into the southern hemisphere, Blue Water Rally yachts have now arrived in Salinas, Ecuador. The 700 mile passage was predictably dogged by lack of wind and the occasional headwinds were compounded by a north flowing current to make this an extremely tedious trip. The rain and overcast skies mixed with oppressive humidity have produced some of the most unpleasant weather so far experienced on the rally.

The warmth of the welcome in the Puerto Lucia Yacht Club, however, soon raised spirits and the swimming pool, bars and restaurants were immediately put to good use. A welcome party in the main salon of the Club allowed ralliers to meet many local yachtsmen and their families and proved highly successful. Meanwhile the fitness centre, saunas (believe it or not) and jacuzzi (where some of the younger crew members were caught in decadent pose cradling bottles of beer! ) have been well used. . Salinas is the fishing capital of Ecuador and Peter Seymour reports that eating out is "very good" with lobster thermidor a firm favourite and goliath ‘jumbo shrimps’ running a very close second.

Most rally participants are now away on excursion trips; many to the high Andes where they will visit Quito at over 10,000 feet and the valley of the volcanoes, as well as experiencing a hair raising railway journey across gorges and down the ‘devil’s nose’ escarpment before visiting the inca ruins of Incapirca. Others are venturing into the Amazon forest, some are off backpacking for a week or so and of course most are flying out to the Galapagos for their excursions of the islands to see their unique wildlife. The specially laid moorings at the Puerto Lucia Yacht Club will no doubt be considerable comfort to those leaving their yachts at Salinas during this intense period of adventuring ashore.

The Rally leaves the coast of South America at the beginning of March and heads out westwards across the vast expanses of the Pacific Ocean. The first leg is another of 700 miles to the Galapagos Islands where yachts will pause for up to a week before setting out on the longest trip of the entire circumnaviagtion, just over 3000 miles, to the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia where they are due to arrive in early April.

Yachts have now departed from the Galapagos Islands where everyone's high expectations for meeting wildlife in an unspoilt environment were firmly satisfied. Pieter and Pauline Lindeque's comment says it all: " In one dive we saw three species of shark including a hammerhead, manta rays, sea lions, turtles and thousands of fish - more than in any other dive we've ever experienced".

The yachts are in two groups: a southerly group made up of those people that had visited the Galapagos by air from mainland Ecuador and who are now sailing direct for the Marquesas Islands from Salinas and a more northerly group comprising those that sailed to the Galapagos.

Following their fast passages across the Pacific, Blue Water Ralliers have been engaged in some serious relaxation in the beautiful Marquesas - their first landfall after some 3000 miles. The Marquesas Islands with their stunning, green mountains,1000-foot waterfalls, deep bays and connections with Polynesian pre-history, have provided both fascinating and exciting for the participants.

Getting to the "office" in the Marquesas is one of the most challenging tasks for the Support Team as they travel the world! Tony Diment reported that, not only did he have to suffer the usual 3-hour 4WD transit from the island airport over the mountains, but torrential rains had partly washed away the mud track and created deep streams which had to be forded en route. However, weather conditions subsequently improved for the arrival of the yachts.

Most yachts had arrived in Nuku Hiva by 5 April, although some were still enjoying extended cruising amongst the other islands. Yachts have been anchored in Taiohae Bay, site of the first meeting between European explorers and Polynesians in the late 1500s. Locally, ancient cannibal sites abound, with their stone gods (tikis) protecting them, and crews have explored deep into the island by 4WD to visit and admire the wild, mountain scenery.

On 5 April over 90 crew members joined in a local feast and were entertained by dancers, some displaying the traditional body tattoos of their cannibal predecessors - yet another evening to remember on this "voyage of a lifetime".

Yachts are now beginning to sail away towards the coral atolls of the Tuamotus. However, many are first taking the opportunity to visit beautiful Daniel's Bay, an almost totally enclosed anchorage, with its freshwater spring and fine beach. There, Ralliers will sign Daniel's visitors' book, a record of the passage of many world sailors who have passed that way over the years.

The Blue Water Rally yachts are due to arrive in Tahiti from 23 April onwards

In mid-April we brought to a close our series of 5 seminars for the 1999 Blue Water Round the World Cruising Rally. This gives us a chance to thank all our speakers, who have contributed so much to the knowledge and preparation of our participants. We have had experts from the yachting industry, who came to give us the benefit of their knowledge of the various equipments available and to give us practical demonstrations. We have had a number of Blue Water sailors join us to share their experiences and they have not only informed, but entertained.

The seminars have also created the opportunity for owners and crew members to get together in a social atmosphere over the last few months. We all have happy memories of these gatherings, which we are sure will be repeated many times from October onwards! One feature of the 1999 Rally is the large number of families sailing together and we felt that a suitable souvenir might be this photograph of the children who attended our highly successful Half-Year-To-Go Party. Who can forget the outstanding costumes, the South Seas singers and dancers of Kiribati and the sound of the steel band, to which we danced so energetically.

The 1999 Blue Water Round the World Cruising Rally starts on 31 October. Crews will be gathering at Gibraltar for a Departure Fortnight of briefings, practical safety demonstrations, social events and tourism, commencing 18 October. There are still some vacancies on this next circumnavigation and we would be pleased to hear from any interested owners. Preparations for our Year 2000 Blue Water Round the World Cruising Rally begin in May 1999 with an introductory seminar in London for owners. Again we would be pleased to hear from potential participants.

Every sailor's dream turns at some time to the blue seas, coral atolls and beautiful islands of the South Pacific.  Blue Water Rally sailors were no different when they set off to sail their dream in October 1998.  The realisation of that dream came with their recent visit to French Polynesia and the fabled French Polynesian Islands made famous by Cook, Bligh, Bougainville - and Hollywood.

The Blue Water Rally arrived in the Marquesas Islands in early April and has since then cruised through the coral atolls of the Tuamotus and the magical Society Islands of French Polynesia - Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raitaea, Tahaa and Bora Bora.  For Rally crews this was a period of free-cruising through the Tuamotus, a gathering at Papeete (Tahiti), further free-cruising and a final get-together at Bora Bora before departure for Tonga. 

The Tuamotus comprise 78 low, coral atolls scattered over several hundred miles - islands where crews discovered the true flavour of life in the South Pacific.  Here the lagoons are a bright, azure blue with water so clear that the bottom came be seen many fathoms below and shoals of tropical fish provide a heaven for both snorkel and scuba dive enthusiasts.  It was a chance for Rally yachtsmen to meet Polynesians in their own homes and to discover something of the simplicity of the life of local fishermen and black pearl farmers - providing personal contacts and memories which will be treasured for many years to come.

By 24 April yachts were arriving in the port of Papeete to be welcomed by the Support Team and for a brief while to make the transition to the sophistication and bustle of the capital of French Polynesia.  Thanks to the support of the Port Director, Béatrice Chansin, and her team, special arrangements had been made for the yachts to lie Mediterranean-style at the Quai d'Honneur in the centre of the town.  Friendly immigration, customs and port officials and special Rally arrangements for the waiver of the unpopular "cruising bond" made the arrival of the Blue Water fleet a relatively simple affair.  Each day Michel Alcon, the friendly Manager of the Tahiti Yacht Club, delivered mail to the Rally office at the Quai.  Spares, too, were cleared and delivered quickly and efficiently making this a stress-free arrival for the Support Team. 

Crews welcomed the change in environment, if only briefly, and, despite the high prices, enjoyed the opportunity to shop, eat and drink European-style, including breakfasting on French croissants and baguettes.  Most found their way at some stage to the famous Roulottes, (mobile diners), which were set up each night close by.  Blue Water Ralliers ate well, finding an amazing range of Chinese, local and European food at reasonable prices and in a unique atmosphere.  Before departure all paid visits to the amazing Papeete indoor market, where a huge range of fruit and vegetables could be found 7 days a week.

As usual, there was a range of tourism available, but first the fleet was given an official welcome to Polynesia by a traditional musical and dance group at the Quai d'Honneur, where yachts were dressed overall to mark the occasion.  None will forget the rhythmic sounds of drumming and the sensuous dancing of the Tamoure performed that evening - just as Captains Cook and Bligh had probably experienced centuries before.   However, the skippers reported no mutinies on this occasion!

As a break from victualling and make-and-mend, almost the whole fleet took part in a round the island tour of Tahiti.  Travelling in two of Les Trucks (the unique local transport ), crews visited waterfalls, a blow-hole, the Gauguin Museum, botanical gardens and viewed outstanding coastal scenery.  It was an opportunity, too, for an excellent buffet lunch at the Gauguin Museum restaurant, whose British owner had been marooned when his yacht sank in the islands some 30 years before - and who could blame him for staying! 

But, by the 1st of May, crews were ready to move on for their next stage of free-cruising - to Bora Bora.  For most it was a short sail to Moorea, made famous as the Bali Hai of "South Pacific" and as a backdrop for "Mutiny on the Bounty".  Its two bays, Opunohu and Cook's, with their breathtakingly beautiful scenery, provided a secure anchorage for Rally yachts as they undertook shore tours around the island.  The interior with its historic "Marae" stone temples hidden in the woods, its pastel-painted thatched houses, flower-gardens, pineapple plantations and waterfalls made a great impression - none more so than the view from the Belvedere, at some 3000 feet overlooking the twin bays.  Yet again, the divers and snorkellers had an outstanding time. 

Described by one participant as "a trip through Paradise", the voyage through the islands was all of which participants had dreamed.  Despite the impact of tourism, Blue Water sailors enjoyed the charms of Raitaea and its twin island of Tahaa and reported idyllic stopovers in unspoilt anchorages.  Many enjoyed following the guidance contained in Dick Allan's "Off The Beaten Track".  (Dick sailed around the world with the Trade Winds Rally and is now a consultant to Blue Water Rallies.)  Certainly, the view from the north-west "motu" (islet) off Tahaa provided a breathtaking spectacle of sunset over Bora Bora.  However, it was Huahine which attracted the most praise from Rally crews.  Relatively untouched by tourism, with beautiful anchorages inside the reef and a most genuine welcome from the local inhabitants, Huahine was considered exceptional even in comparison with its neighbouring islands.  Even amongst such superlatives, all crews found their approach to Bora Bora the most beautiful in the world (so far?) ………….

Bora Bora at the end of the chain of The Society Islands was the rendez-vous point for the Blue Water Rally.  Yachts anchored in the clearest blue waters imaginable or moored outside the Bora Bora Yacht Club as they made last-minute preparations for their departure.  A route briefing was held at the Yacht Club, whose restaurant and its genial host, Guy Clement, had provided a popular venue for get-togethers over the last few days.  It was with more than a tinge of sadness that crews departed from Polynesia on 14 May (some casting their floral leis onto the water in traditional fashion).  Blue Water Rally yachts are now sailing the next leg via the Cook Islands to Tonga.

As Blue Water Rallies are annual events, participants are able to "drop out" and take an extra year - usually in the Pacific, before joining the next Rally to complete their circumnavigation. We were sorry to say goodbye (actually "au revoir") to Dominique and Danielle Planchon of "La Billebaude", who left the Rally at Bora Bora. Dominique previously served in French Polynesia with the French Navy and is looking forward to revisiting the area, this time with Danielle on their own yacht. They will join the 1999 Rally in French Polynesia in May next year to return to the Mediterranean.

We wish them all the very best and good sailing over the coming months.