An earthquake measuring 8.9 points on the Richter scale at it's epicentre in northern Indonesia occurred in the early morning hours of Sunday 26th December GMT. The effects on the Indian Ocean and the countries which border it were catastrophic and the resultant tidal wave struck all of the countries bordering the Indian Ocean as well as the island of Phuket where the Rally was staying for the Christmas and New Year festivities.

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN PHUKET

Farewell to Singapore

By 1 December only "Condor" (waiting to say farewell to departing family) remained at the RSYC.  All other Blue Water yachts have set out for "free cruising" from Singapore to Phuket, where they will be met by Blue Water Rally Manager, Richard Bolt, on 10 December. 

The stopover at the Republic of Singapore Yacht Club was voted a huge success by Ralliers.  The mixture of outstanding club facilities, the warm welcome from members and staff and the great local support from Marina Manager Mark Ray and his team, will long be remembered - as will the vibrant and fascinating atmosphere of Singapore.  Ralliers indulged in "retail therapy" but still found time for tourism and a multitude of other activities.  Many participants enjoyed the opportunity to get fit again in the excellent fitness centre at the RSYC.  Tash Barton of "Mizu Baby" made contact with the Singapore Judo Club and spent time fighting the locals (!), whilst Brian Newton of "New Crusader" challenged local players to games of squash. 

For some participants the stopover opened up an opportunity to visit other countries in SE Asia.  The crews of  “Ocean Song” (Murray and Amanda Kayll) and “Gee Whiz” (Paul and Elizabeth Moody) flew to Cambodia and visited Angkor Wat.

There were, of course, some formal activities.  The Commodore and Committee of the RSYC gave a welcome party for the Rally (Boaters' Night and Barbeque) on 19 November and this gave the opportunity for Peter Seymour to mark the visit of the Rally with a presentation to the Club.  At the Leg Briefing, informal presentations were made by the RSYC to the 3 winners of the Photo Competition (Carolyn Roberts, Ivor Karan and Peter Goldsmith) and we were delighted to present Mark Ray with a token of our appreciation for all his efforts. 

Cruising Malaysia

The leg from Singapore to Phuket offers participants some interesting opportunities for stopovers along the coast of Malaysia.  Within 24 hours of leaving we had a message from the RSYC saying that they had to send a dive team out to “Dr Bird” (Benno and Margrit Schneider), who had managed to become entangled in a submerged length of rope just off the nearest point of Malaysia – not such a pleasant birthday for Margrit!  However, again thanks to the professional support at the RSYC, the dive team arrived and cleared the problem, thus enabling “Dr Bird” to continue northwards.

Since their departure yachts have reported their stops at such places as the Admiral Marina in Port Dickson and the Royal Selangor Yacht Club at Port Klang near Kuala Lumpur.  During the first week in December most of the fleet will have visited Penang and arrived at the beautiful island of Langkawi at the extreme north of Malaysia.  As Langkawi is famed for its exquisite resorts and diving opportunities, most crews will stay here for several days before “clearing out” of Malaysia en route to Phuket, some 140 miles away.  Certainly, they will not forget to take the opportunity to buy their duty-free here – reputedly the cheapest in SE Asia.

Christmas and New Year in Phuket

Although berthing in Phuket is likely to be extremely tight in early December, this should not worry Rally crews too much as the aim will be to cruise amongst the stunning scenery of the islands.  The programme is very flexible, with most crews likely to sail individually and in small groups with a probable rendezvous for all at Phi Phi Don Island at Christmas.  As in Antigua, crews will either celebrate Christmas Day as families on board their yachts or, perhaps, ashore in one of the many lovely restaurants overlooking the blue waters of Phang Nga Bay.  Phuket will also be the scene of several reunions, with family members from Europe and the USA joining Rally yachts for the festive season.

By 3 January crews will have started their outward clearances from Phuket and Thailand for the voyage to Sri Lanka.  We shall bring you up to date with more news and photographs near the time.

Leaving Indonesia
By 14 November most Rally yachts had arrived safely at the beautiful Nongsa Point Marina on Batam Island opposite Singapore. For most, the previous 7-10 days had been pretty frustrating, with little wind and thunderstorms as this is the monsoon season in SE Asia - much motoring, high sea temperatures (nearly 30 degrees), high air temperatures (30+) and nearly 100% humidity. Nonetheless, many crews had called in at Kumai in Kalimantan to visit the local orangutan sanctuary and felt this had indeed been one of the highlights of their voyage and well worth a detour.

Nongsa Point Marina, headed by their excellent manager, Francis Olsen, pulled out all the stops to make the short stopover a great success. Crews found all the comforts of a well-appointed marina with power, water and shore facilities, very much to their liking after weeks of anchoring. The pool and bar in the resort hotel were much used!!

This was also a time for crews to gather and swap stories and experiences - what could be better than a full Indonesian buffet and BBQ on the "deck" looking out over the marina under the stars? On the final night after a shopping expedition organised by the Rally Support Team, crews gathered again, this time at the beautiful Pagoda Bar and Restaurant at the next door Turi Resort for another mouth-watering meal.

Yet again the Nongsa Marina team had been working hard throughout the day preparing and processing paperwork for the mass clearance of yachts and crews from Indonesia - another benefit of the Rally! With paperwork and refuelling complete, the Rally made their farewells to Indonesia and departed throughout the morning of the 17th, heading across the busy Singapore Straits to the prestigious Republic of Singapore Yacht Club.

The Republic of Singapore Yacht Club

The journey from Nongsa Point across the Singapore Straits was a real eye-opener for Rally crews, who had spent the last few months in almost empty waters!! The Straits are the busiest waterway in the world and Tuesday 17th was no exception. Blue Water Rally yachts had to cross the Traffic Separation Scheme, where supertankers, LPG vessels and container ships were passing in two continuous streams from east to west and west to east, separated by only a few minutes. Most yachts chose to motor, but "Ocean Song" maintained her tradition of sailing the whole Rally route and, with occasion squalls and minimum visibility, had to reef and dodge passing vessels. Owners, Murray and Amanda Kayll, said it had been "an interesting passage"!!

On arrival at the RSYC Marina crews were met by Manager, Mark Ray, and his team, who processed the usually complex paperwork for immigration, customs and the Port Authority with extraordinary efficiency - but this, of course, is Singapore!! One skipper remarked, as he waited in the beautiful swimming pool for the Immigration Staff to be called, "I've never waited in such amazing surroundings".

Within a matter of hours several yachts were being attended to by local mechanical and electrical tradesmen and tasks programmed for the forthcoming days. And now the "retail therapy" begins in earnest.......!!

The tourist scene in Singapore speaks for itself and there is only one event programmed - the Welcome Boaters' Night - organised by the RSYC for the evening of 19 November. Of course there will be a Leg Briefing covering Singapore to Phuket, given by Peter Seymour, the Rally Director, on Monday 22nd.

Just Two to Come ......

At the time of writing we have heard that "Scaramouche" (David Rucker) had engine problems, which delayed her arrival at Nongsa Point. She was safely towed in by Francis Olsen and his team and is now at the Marina there. All is well with the crew. We also expect "Gaultine" (Stuart Milne) to arrive at Nongsa Point in the next 24 hours. Their current plan is to stay there and to depart next week, meeting up with other Rally yachts en route to Phuket.

Three birthdays were celebrated at the Welcome Party held at Jimmy's Bar, Kupang. From left to right Guido van Daele, Jill Newton and Ivor Karan. The Mayor of Kupang greeted the Rally during the party, and in return for the generous hospitality bestowed upon them the Rally managed to make a substantial donation to the local children's orphanage raising several million rupiah as a gift.

Australian Customs clear the fleet at Cullen Bay Marina prior to departure from Darwin to Kupang in Indonesia

'Safari' drops in for a meal at one of the Marina side restaurants at Cullen Bay.

THE BLUE WATER RALLY ARRIVES IN INDONESIA

Darwin – a few problems

After managing the Darwin stopover, Tony Diment travelled via Bali to Kupang in West Timor to meet the Blue Water Rally/Oz-Med Rally fleet. This time, the Darwin stopover presented a number of problems, both for individuals and for the Rally organisation.  Despite the paperwork having been despatched several weeks in advance to our agent in Indonesia, the required cruising permits did not arrive in time and “our man in Darwin” spent a considerable amount of effort in persuading the Indonesian Consulate to provide visas and authority for the yachts to depart for Kupang.  There were also problems with refuelling because of restrictions on deliveries.  However, problems were resolved and the stopover went smoothly thereafter.

There were also individual difficulties.  “Condor” was delayed in Cairns waiting for spare parts and, more seriously, “Safari” lost a propellor, which had been badly fitted during her overhaul in Cairns.  Others with problems included “Mizu Baby” (gearbox and generator), “Nademia” (water in engine oil) and “Regardless” (severe engine problems).  At the time of writing the various solutions are in hand and delays in departure are being handled through good communications between Tony in Kupang and yachts in Darwin.

Kupang – Entry point into Indonesia

It was, therefore, with a great deal of relief that Tony reported on 6 October that “Aragorn” had safely arrived that morning and the majority of yachts would arrive in the next 2 days. Kupang was, of course, the scene of serious political and military unrest during the East/West Timor crisis only 5 years ago.  At that time our 1998 Rally was unable to visit the country because of the serious instability and local war.  Whilst Kupang is now considered to be a ‘safe’ port of entry for transient yachts, Tony reports that Kupang is very rundown and facilities are even more limited than in the past.

Tony is using a local agent to assist with all the bureaucracy of yacht and crew clearances and refuelling has to be undertaken by a vessel coming alongside each yacht and diesel fuel being hand-pumped into the waiting Rally yacht!  Nonetheless the system works, even if it is a dramatic change in culture and sophistication from Cairns and Darwin.

Tourism and Social Events

Despite some of the practical problems, the Rally crews will, as ever, enjoy some local tourism and social activity.  On offer are local tourist trips to see some of the culture of West Timor, including seeing the manufacture of the unique Sasando musical instrument, local dancing, monkey caves etc.

There will also be an official party on 9 October at which the Rally will be welcomed by the Governor and Mayor.  The local Tourist Board will be providing music and dancing to make it a very special occasion.

Onward to Singapore

From Kupang yachts are scheduled to cruise through the Spice Islands of Indonesia to Bali.  En route the biggest highlight will be a visit to the famous Komodo dragons.  From Bali yachts head north to Singapore with the possibility of calling at an orangutan sanctuary in the wilderness of Kalimantan.  Crews will be met at Nongsa Point Marina, just south of Singapore, around 14 November.  We expect to provide a more detailed report on the visit to Kupang when Tony Diment returns.  However, further reports between Kupang and Singapore are unlikely, although we shall be maintaining regular contact with the fleet from Rally Control.

Davd Arnold (Paroo) and Jane Duckworth (Ishtar) try out their newly purchased Ikat woven shawls. The 'funny' head dress is that worn by the sasando players - cylindrical harps unique to Timor.

A glimpse of a quiet corner of Cullen Bay Marina, Darwin.

THE RALLY SETTLES IN AT CAIRNS

Mixed weather and some problems

Nearly all the yachts in the Rally are now gathered in various locations around Cairns in Queensland, Australia. One of our number, our Spanish yacht Barbas, is still struggling to get here from the Fijian islands, but is suffering some light winds and engine trouble. They have been in touch and estimate they will be here on Saturday 21st. 

Light winds have been a problem for many yachts recently. Elise had her engine out of action for 2 days after picking up some dirty fuel. Drifting gently, Guido did not make many miles progress whilst he struggled to clean out his fuel system and filter out the dirt. On the other hand, some yachts hit a short spell of heavy weather soon after leaving Vanuatu. The seawater on deck of Gee Whiz found its way into all the little crevices which have opened up after 7 months in the Pacific, so Elizabeth and Paul are now busy cleaning out the salt and getting rid of corrosion in some of the electrics.

Retail therapy and tourism downunder

This sets the scene for most of the yachts. They have arrived back at a "civilised" country, with a full spectrum of shops and yacht services, after months of visiting beautiful, primitive and remote locations. This has taken its toll on their equipment and rigging. As a result, they are mixing business with pleasure by refitting, repairing and replenishing whilst finding time to enjoy some shopping, partying and touring the delights of Australia both near and far.

This is halfway round for those who set off from Gibraltar in October, nearly a year ago, and many skippers are taking the opportunity for some serious refurbishment, whilst crews are grabbing the opportunity for a swift break back in Europe, South Africa or wherever home happens to be. Others, like Leslie and Dick on Aragorn, or our newly-weds on Dr Bird - Margrit and Benno - are soon off to the bright lights and comfortable hotels in Sydney. Safari, our only catamaran and the first yacht in to Cairns, has been out of the water over 10 days for some major scheduled servicing. Aragorn and Condor are also high and dry, whilst New Crusader has been out for some welding repairs to her keel and is now floating again.

The Yorkeys Knob Boat Club - great hosts

Our host club, Yorkeys Knob Boating Club, could not have looked after us better. Jim Downes, the club manager, and his team offer the friendliest and most accommodating welcome anywhere. The Commodore - Don Cortis - and members of YKBC invited all the rally participants to a Welcome Party, last Tuesday. The kindred spirits of sailing, adventure and partying soon brought the locals and visitors together and a great time was had by all.

A warm welcome and a farewell

The party was an opportunity to formally welcome three new boats to the rally, Ishtar and Paroo are Australian yachts adventuring back to Europe, whilst Briet is a Dutch boat which has been down-under for some time. At the same time, we bade farewell to our J35, Sunday. Peter and Patty have decided they want to see a lot more of the Southern Hemisphere and want to take time out to do it justice. There is a good chance they might join our next rally, back to Europe, in two years time. On Wednesday, Ocean Song hosted a small party on board, for those that started out from Gibraltar in October last year, to wish Peter and Patty a bon voyage.

Briefings and "free-cruising" to Darwin

Tomorrow, Friday, YKBC have invited us all to experience an Aussie Beach Barby - just before we have a briefing, early on Saturday, from a Torres Strait Pilot on how to negotiate the perilous waters around Cape York. At the same time, Guy, an experienced sailing member of the club, has volunteered to add to the briefing by adding detail from a yachtie's point of view. If he is as amusing at the briefing as he was at the party, we are in for a session that will be both informative and entertaining. It might need to be lively if the previous night's barby matches the usual Aussie hospitality!

From Sunday 22nd August onwards, yachts will start to make their own leisurely way to Darwin as they have a "free-sail" leg to enjoy the delights of the Great Barrier Reef, the Coral Sea, the Torres Straits and the Gulf of Carpentaria, until they get to Darwin, their last Australian stop, in late September. In sum, Cairns is proving to be a short spell in a developed world, where ralliers are able to restore their yachts and energies, before venturing forth on the next stages of their adventure around the globe.

VANUATU

RALLY YACHTS DEPART FIJI FOR AUSTRALIA

Savusavu to Musket Cove

The stopovers in Tonga and Fiji were voted a huge success by Blue Water Rally participants.  In Savusavu crews found a wonderful mix of the traditional and modern Fiji.  Parties and events at the Savusavu Yacht Club were interspersed with trips to local villages and, of course, the Red Prawn Tour.  Crews sailed to Musket Cove either “northabout” Vita Levu through Bligh Water to Musket Cove, whilst others chose the more straightforward route south via Suva.

A Reunion at Suva

Alistair and Carolyn Roberts on “Nademia” were particularly pleased to have made a stop in Suva, where Alistair had a reunion with retired Fijian soldiers of his old British Army regiment.  Many stories were told, many toasts were made, and much local kava consumed.

At Musket Cove

As ever, Musket Cove has been a highlight of the voyage.  Rally yachts were all berthed stern-to in the Marina with power and water and found themselves only 30 metres from the world-famous 3-Dollar Bar on Ratu Nemani Island.  Within hours of arriving crews were swapping stories and enjoying the evening DIY BBQ.  Dick Smith, Musket Cove’s owner and host to the Rally, made all the facilities of the Musket Cove Resort available to Ralliers and everyone was soon chilling out beside the pool, in the bars and on the beach. 

Two Weddings

Highlights of the stopover was, of course, the weddings of David and Claire Lewis (“Condor”) and Benno and Margrit Schneider (“Dr Bird”).  Whilst David and Claire chose to have their marriage on the mainland, Benno and Margrit opted for a traditional Fijian wedding on “Dick’s Island” at Musket Cove.  Without family guests from home, Benno and Margrit invited Ralliers to become their extended family and join them for their very special day.  The sun shone, the local string band accompanied the event and all enjoyed a very happy occasion.  In the evening the two couples invited Ralliers to join them at their joint wedding reception at the resort poolside.  Peter and Annette were honoured to be asked to be the chief witnesses and Brian Newton (“New Crusader”) did an excellent job as Best Man, with very amusing and revealing yarns of Benno and Margrit on the high seas.

A Rally Dinner and a Race Day

Apart from a highly enjoyable Rally Dinner, which was also held that week, a group of intrepid “boy racers” and their crews took part in the Blue Water Rally Grand Hobie Cat Challenge!!  Four Hobie Cats were launched in high winds to race a series culminating in a Grand Final.  There were a number of incidents (only one of which may be reported on these pages for legal reasons!!), but it may be said that there was no doubt in the minds of the “Race Committee” that Ed and Helen had touched the 2^nd mark, which had unmistakeably found its way between the 2 hulls of their Cat!!  Dick Smith presented the final winners, David Lewis (“Condor”) and his crew Jill Newton (“New Crusader”) with their prizes.

“Make and Mend”

Over the last week some crews have continued to relax at Musket Cove, while others have explored the hinterland of Fiji.  For others it has been an opportunity for “make and mend” and visits to local marinas for liftouts and work.  Unfortunately “Barbas” has had a lengthy series of engine-related problems, which started at Savusavu and badly disrupted their stopover in Fiji.  Their delays have continued, but they hope to leave within the next week for Vanuatu and Cairns.

They’re Off!!

Preceded by a cocktail party generously given by Dick Smith, arrangements were made for all the yachts at Musket Cove to be cleared by Immigration staff, brought across to the Island on the 23^rd July.  With formalities eased, yachts were under way within 24 hours, heading for Port Vila, Vanuatu, where they are expected around 26/27 July.  Although not a supported stopover, Rally organisers have been given the support of the owner of “Yachting World” (Elsie Stoneham – no, not the magazine!), who has laid on a programme for them.

We expect to receive reports from the fleet in the next few days and, doubtless, stories of an interesting and fun stopover in Vanuatu.

It must be something in the air - A second wedding at Musket Cove!

David and Claire of `Condor' made a surprise visit to Nadi in Fiji on 9th July to return as a married couple, much to the delight of fellow Blue Water Ralliers.They will spend their honeymoon sailing the rest of the Blue Water Rally, but in the meantime have spent much time celebrating with fellow skippers and crews in the beautiful resort of Musket Cove, Fiji.

Everyone now looks forward to the next event - the wedding of Benno and Magrit from `Doctor Bird' on Monday 12th July. We hope to bring you plenty of photos of the happy couple in due course.

WEDDING FOR RALLY SKIPPER
Fellow Rally participants were delighted to be told by Benno Schneider (Yacht "Dr Bird")that he and Margrit Eggli are to be married in Fiji at Musket Cove. Congratulations were the order of the day during the Departure Briefing at Savusavu and crews look forward to joining Benno and Margrit for the special day on 12 July.

FIJI UPDATE - ALL SAFELY IN
With the safe arrival of "St Barbara" mid-morning on 5 July, all Blue Water Rally yachts have now all safely arrived in Fiji. "Safari" is at Musket Cove whilst the remainder of the fleet are on moorings or stern-to at the Copra Shed Marina at Savusavu.

Just prior to departure from Tonga Ralliers finished their programme with a Tongan Feast at a secluded anchorage. The evening was highlighted by the dancing of children from the local village and music under the stars. Next day yachts sailed to a tropical island for a beach BBQ (the 2-page photograph of the venue is in the Sunsail brochure!) All were disappointed to leave Tonga after a wonderful few days amongst delightful people.

Easy Arrivals in Fiji
Passages from Tonga to Fiji were accompanied by strong winds and quite big seas. Nonetheless most crews were delighted to make fast passages, including a record 163 miles in a day for "Ocean Song" - normally difficult to "pick up her skirts" and sail fast. The arrival port of Savusavu has evolved over the years into an official Port of Entry and much has changed with officialdom since our first world rally. Nowadays Health, Customs and Immigration officials are welcoming, courteous and helpful. Even with arrivals at 0800 on a Sunday, the smiling team of officials were on hand to assist with clearances.

A Great Programme and a Great Club
Ralliers have been made extremely welcome by the members of the Savusavu Yacht Club, who have organised a full programme of social events, commencing with a formal welcome by the Mayor of Savusavu. On the programme are musical evenings, a curry dinner, local dancing and a 4th of July lunch. On 6th July participants are having a Fiji Day learning Fiji customs, including kava drinking, weaving and cooking in an earth oven.

Support for Local Children
Ralliers are always keen to do something for local children and Savusavu has been no exception. Savusavu Yacht Club has a great tradition of support for children learning to sail and has produced Olympic sailors to represent Fiji. This year's effort includes sending representatives to the Pacific Optimist Championships. Ralliers enjoyed wagering on Optimist racing on Sunday 4th July and 8 skippers managed to get afloat (with difficulty!) in Optimists and race each other - also raising money for the same worthwhile charity. First yacht was from the USA - of course, it was Independence Day! A 4-figure total of Fiji dollars was reached and presented to the Club - a small, but nonetheless sincere, gesture to the Club and their young sailors.

Tourism
Savusavu is called "The Hidden Paradise" and Ralliers have certainly found this to be true. Trips have been taken to a number of sites - all of them "off the beaten track". A group has visited a local village and seen the famous Red Prawns brought to the surface by chanting and clapping. Others have visited waterfalls and the beautiful interior of the island.

On to Musket Cove
On 7th July yachts will start to leave Savusavu and head round to Musket Cove - a trip of some 2-3 days - where another programme of events will be held. WATCH THIS SPACE!

The fleet, moored stern-to at Musket Cove, salutes the happy couples by 'dressing overall'.

Hen Party

David & Claire

The Blue Water Rally 'Family Photo' !

Who would have thought a year ago when we started our circumnavigation that one of our deliberate excursions would be to sail 360 miles to a small atoll, Aitutaki in the Southern Cook Islands, not actually knowing whether we could get in there because of the depth of water, or lack of it! But, despite having as my fellow traveller, my wife, a long time qualified Yachtmaster and Shore Based Instructor and Examiner, (you know - heights of tide, secondary ports, etc) that is exactly what we did.

The attraction was the very fact the pass into the lagoon was so shallow that few boats could enter; it seemed an ideal away from it all spot. Also friends of ours who had been, said it was a must for its unspoilt nature and beautiful scenery. The negative aspects were that, if we could not get in, the alternatives included a further 4 days sailing to the next closest
island on our route or anchor in the very exposed conditions outside the pass with an outboard not powerful to get ashore through the 4 knots outflow. Further, our information was varied, incomplete and sometimes contradictory. For example, the time of high water for our day of arrival was either 1700, 1815 or 2000 depending on who you talked to; last light was
about 1830; the depth at the bar was 1.45m and the maximum depth was either 1.8m, 2m or 6 feet, again depending on what you read. We draw 1.7m. Just to complicate things, the weather and the swell can interfere in that part of the world, as to how much water is flowing into and out of the lagoon and thus slack water, if there is one, may not coincide with high water. Have I made the point?

Anyway, we arrived off the pass on the West coast of Aitutaki at midday in a lumpy North Westerly; where were the SE Trades? We anchored unhappily on a lee shore in 22 metres onto a mixture of sand and fierce looking coral heads
to await whichever high tide was going or not going to get us into Arutunga, the harbour and port. Meanwhile two other boats arrived equally unsure of the situation and with different information but both with slightly deeper draughts. This gave us a sort of confidence; if we were mad, they were madder. The American boat did not even have an engine and prowled up and down outside the entrance trying to arrange a tow!

At 1630 we weighed anchor and as the shallowest draught vessel agreed to be the guinea pig. As it was a rising tide and the channel itself between the jagged coral was soft sand, we were not too anxious. The entry was OK except one had to keep the throttle well open to manoeuvre through the 4 knot outflow. Once that was achieved we gingerly eased along the ill defined channel, only to come to a soft landing on the bar. We could not find a way round. What to do? We could not turn round; we could wait for more tide but the wind was blowing us on to the coral and darkness was approaching, or we could back out, propwalk and all. Well this is what we did slightly ignominiously but successfully; could it be a first time a yacht had done this?!

Meanwhile our engineless American friend had managed to raise a local contact and a fishing boat arrived to take him in tow and to guide us and the third boat in. Even this did not go smoothly - the tow had to be cut twice and the American eventually abandoned to his own devices; we were led in at 4 knots along a slightly different route from the recommended one, but made it into the lagoon with 1.9m registered on the way! The third boat (Canadian) got stuck where we had previously and further drama unfolded behind us because the engineless American had found himself so close the
reef on a lee shore he could not sail away. He had no option but to sail in only to be confronted with a boat stuck across the channel. Somehow accompanied by a lot of frenzied instructions on VHF he squeezed by and anchored with panache in the lagoon and then the Canadians were dragged in by the fishing boat. As we tied up we realised it was completely dark. The
whisky tasted really good!

Postscript - Aitutaki was worth the drama and effort. It is very beautiful and the large lagoon unusual for its shallowness. The people have to be the friendliest we have met so far and after months of getting by in Spanish and French, it was a relief to speak English! By the way we also touched bottom on the way out despite being told by the locals we were going out on a rising tide. In the event it proved to be a falling one. Such are the excitements of sailing backwards in Aitutaki!

"We left Bora Bora on 6 June, bound for the Cook Islands, about 5 days’ sailing away. However, after 24 hours of very light winds, and a failure to whistle up any more, we decided to divert to Maupihaa , to wait for a sailing breeze. Maupihaa is a coral atoll, and a mere smudge on the Admiralty chart at 16.46S and 154.00W. The pilot book was not very encouraging; it offered a rough sketch of the atoll, and a warning that the pass through the reef “is one of the trickiest in French Polynesia for it is narrow, unmarked, and difficult to spot”. We finally identified it, and motored forward nervously into a strong outflowing current of over 5 knots. Once safely through and into the lagoon, we dropped anchor off the largest of the motus, which was thickly covered in palm trees and low bushes. We went ashore to look for signs of the small village that had been swept away by a hurricane some years previously, but found none. The residents had apparently abandoned the island, and the only inhabitants now were a father and son who spent several weeks a year there looking after their pearl farm in the lagoon. They were dropped off by freighter, and picked up again two months later – in the meantime their nearest neighbours were over 100 miles away, and their only visitors the occasional cruising yachts like ourselves. They motored up to us one morning with a small bag of black pearls, which they wanted to trade for a Union Jack to add to their collection of national flags. Unfortunately, they were not interested in my Welsh Dragon, so I have promised to send them a flag, and in return I was given three pearls. They then produced an oyster the size of a dinner plate from a pile in the bottom of their boat, and prised it open to reveal a really lovely black pearl which they gave to me.

There were thousands of seabirds in Maupihaa, the most we had seen since the Galapagos. We watched frigate birds swooping down in procession to snatch a beakful of water from the small pond near our anchorage, and when we dinghied over to a small motu nearby we realized that it was the breeding season, and dozens of frigate birds were perched in the small trees, the males puffing out their red balloons and the females looking disdainful There were also some brown boobies nesting in the same trees, with a few fluffy white hatchlings the size of hens sitting rather precariously on the branches, waiting to be fed.

We made our way to an even smaller motu across the lagoon, which was little more than a coral sandbar with some low-growing thorn bushes. As we approached, we found that each thornbush contained one or more frigate birds sitting on their nests. We were able to approach really close without disturbing the birds, which watched us warily but would not fly off. We saw several abandoned nests, each containing a single large egg – presumably the parent was away foraging. Then we saw that these nests were being raided by the male frigate birds, who swooped down and stole the nesting material, leaving the egg to roll off and fall onto the rock below. This was why the nesting birds were reluctant to fly off as we approached – we watched as they snarled at potential raiding parties of low-flying males. We were also lucky enough to see one very new hatchling, a scrawny thing bumbling around blindly in a half-denuded nest – I hope its parent would return soon.

We motored over to a third little motu, which was covered in bright green bushes. As we approached we saw that the ground beneath was completely covered in nesting sooty terns – there were thousands and thousands of the llittle black and white birds. When we stepped ashore hundreds of them rose in an angry squawking flock and hovered just a foot or two above our heads, like a scene from a Hitchcock film. The ground was littered with their eggs, resting on the bare coral debris. When we moved away the birds landed again and settled on their eggs, though how they knew which was theirs was a mystery.

As we walked along the coral beach we saw young blacktip sharks, about 18” long, prowling in the shallows, and parrot fish feeding in water so shallow they had to turn on their sides to move around, thrashing their tails in the air. The whole atoll would be the perfect subject for a David Attenborough programme! It was our final – and probably most memorable - taste of French Polynesia. "

ON TO TONGA AND FIJI

The next stopover for the Rally is Tonga, where they will be met again by the Support Team - this time Peter Seymour. Both Tonga and Fiji are relatively close to each other and support will be provided in both places, as usual. Although "Aragorn" has arrived somewhat earlier than others, yachts are expected to arrive at Neiafu in Vavau at the northern end of the Tongan islands, most yachts will arrive on 22/23 June.

A rough outline of the Rally programme in Tonga and Fiji is as follows:

Tonga
22/23 June Yachts arrive in Vavau
24 June Rally party with local dancing at the Paradise Hotel
28/29 June Rendez-vous at local bay for Tongan Feast and local dancing. BBQ on return
1 July Yachts depart for Fiji

Fiji
3 July Official Fijian Welcome and Kava Ceremony at Savusavu
4-6 July Events at Savusavu Yacht Club and local tourism
7 July Yachts sail to Musket Cove on Malololailai Island
8-13 July Events at Musket Cove, including BBQ, Fun Afternoon and Rally Dinner
TBD Departures from Musket Cove for Vanuatu and Cairns

The actual departure date from Musket Cove will be determined by yacht owners, but is likely to be around 23 July. This will allow time for cruising in the Yassawa Islands of Fiji and for some owners to undertake work on their yachts.

WATCH THIS SPACE FOR REPORTS FROM THE RALLY!

PARADISE FOUND

Sue and Peter Goldsmith of “St. Barbara” have sent us some reminiscences of their stopover in Polynesia.

Sue writes: We had been promised many times that the Society Islands were the ‘jewels in the crown’ and worth every mile spent at sea – how right it proved to be.

We spent over a week in Papeete enjoying the hustle and bustle of city life, even if we were 30 yards of so from a road much like the M25 in rush hour. The market with its fresh produce and local crafts was a joy to visit even if nothing was purchased, just for the atmosphere and feeling of being local was enough for us.

Moorea
Moorea beckoned her finger at us from15 or so miles to the north so we made our passage - swift one- to Cook’s Bay arriving in perfect afternoon light to see the crystal clear waters of the lagoon. Snorkelling in turquoise waters was only a matter of yards away, the local shop was well stocked with local and international produce and there was plenty to do on land.

Wanting to see the island on wheels gave Peter and I our first experience on a motor scooter. I will never forget the expression on the hire shops managers face when he asked us what experience we had had on a scooter – when we both said this was our first time he swallowed several times and looked at us in complete disbelief – how could two middle aged people have got so far in life without riding a motor scooter! After the first 200 yards or so when we both wobbled a bit, we had a fantastic day with Brian and Jill from New Crusader bombing around the beautiful island. Towards the end we looked like true bikers with the throttle full out and the breeze in our hair - a new experience.

With some reluctance we lifted the anchor in company with Tahlequah, Mizu Baby and New Crusader for our night passage to Huahine. Moorea was so beautiful, could there be better? What we didn’t know was that we were about to experience a truly magical island of beauty, warm hospitality and fantastic marine life.

On to Huahine
Just as we were approaching Huahine in the first light of dawn, Condor who had made the passage the day before called us from their anchorage and suggested the four of us come and join them. All agreed so we carefully navigated the pass like ducks in a row and as we turned to port the most amazing sight of the lagoon greeted us. Every colour of blue was shimmering in the early morning sunshine from almost white to deep navy blue with turquoise, aquamarine and sapphire in between. We knew we had found paradise, to our left was a long green lush motu to our right the green jagged hills of Huahine.

We had hardly caught our breath from the passage when our fist explorations started. No more than 100 yards from our bow we found a fantastic reef teeming with tropical fish and coral gardens, just like swimming through a perfectly landscaped underworld with fish almost tame, not even noticing us.

An invitation later in the day to join Condor for a Bermudian ‘swizzle’ was a great way to round off our first day in paradise. The Bermudian saying – swizzle in – stagger out- was certainly true, a heady cocktail of goodness knows what spirits certainly gave the party a real zing. I think there was some cross-dressing in grass skirts and coconut shells somewhere along the line with photos to prove it.

The next day Brian from New Crusader decided we should all picnic on the beach, with the owner’s permission, and should dine on fresh fish BBQ’d over a fire. Brian hotfoots it to town, some 15 miles away with one of the locals in tow to help with transport. Two hours later he is back with a huge tuna and bread. At 3pm five dinghies depart laden with people, food and drink for the beach avoiding the reef on the way.

The fire was lit and we all feasted on fresh fish, great salads and lots of liquids. Gradually from the odd smile from the local family in the background they came to join us for a great sing song around the campfire, most knew the first few words of the songs. The embers died and we returned to our boats, hoping we could still recognise their profiles.

Local People – Warmth and Friendship
Now we feel part of the local community. As they pass our boats in the anchorage smiles and waves are exchanged, the warmth of these people is amazing, so welcoming and happy for us to be with them, they want nothing in return for their hospitality, just pleased we have visited their world.

The hills around us are green and wooded and look perfect for walking, only sketchy trails are shown on the map so we decide to go and ask ashore. Brian and Jill, Jim and Lolly and we proceed down the road to find a tiny kiosk with children on bikes all around. Thankfully the children had learnt enough English to understand us to point us in the right direction. Our ascent starts. The trail is somewhat overgrown and a bit wild but we pick our way through wild orchids, vanilla and tropical trees up the winding path to reach daylight. Some two hours later we reach the summit and are rewarded by the most magnificent views. This has got to be the ultimate in panoramic vistas. We can just about pick out St Barbara in the lagoon below surrounded by clear turquoise waters, dark sea beyond and the lush green of the motu and the cultivated fields of fruit and vegetables. Our descent was far quicker and we stop for a well-earned cold drink from the kiosk. It was almost as though they had been waiting for us to make sure we were OK.

As we were drinking, a plate of watermelon appeared handed round by the shopkeeper’s daughter. These people had never met us before, but such is their in-built hospitality and generosity they want to share their bounty with us. Language can always appear to be a barrier and an excuse for not communicating, but these people don’t need a common language, the smiles and warmth of personality is worth more than words.

Saturday dawns and we lift our anchor at 8 am, almost exactly five days from laying it. A wonderful experience, we really will be hard pressed to find anything better and if we don’t our Blue Water Rally will be worth every mile spent at sea.

Tony Diment reports as the Rally Fleet relaxes in Tahiti and Moorea.

Having extensively cruised throughout the Marquesas and Tuamotu islands the rally converged on Papeete, the capital of Tahiti. Berthing stern-to a pontoon with power and water in abundance and with the amenities of the town on their doorsteps everyone relaxed for the first week of May in the bustling heart of French Polynesia. Many had serious maintenance problems to resolve and most yachts took advantage of the marine facilities which everyone knew were to be the best available for some considerable time.

Several yachts were scheduled to take their departure from here to explore some of the more remote far reaches of the Pacific, namely `Miss Molly', `Spicy Lady', and `Forever Young' . Sadly Enrique and Carmen (`Perletico') have also had to leave the rally here because of business concerns back in Madrid but they are determined to rejoin the rally in the future.

Apart from the busy maintenance schedules aboard many yachts (`Safari', `Mizu Baby',`St Barbara' and `Condor' in particular) everyone enjoyed the hospitality of the Tahiti Tourist Board who welcomed the Rally with a presentation of leis, cocktails and traditional dancing.

The following day the Rally enjoyed a complimentary round the island tour of Tahiti. Two buses decorated in Polynesian flowers and palm fronds transported the rally group of 60 around the sights of Tahiti. Starting with the museum of Polynesian life, a beautifully preserved tiki site, the fern caves and a pausing for a wonderful buffet lunch for everyone at the Paul Gauguin Museum restaurant - all paid for by the Tourist Board! The excursion continued with a visit to spectacular waterfalls under which some rally members refreshed themselves under the cascading torrents of water, followed by a stop at the impressive blow-hole and finally Venus Point where Captain Cook recorded the passage of Venus.

The next day ( Wednesday 5th May) the Tahiti Yacht Club was the venue for the Rally Briefing for the cruising in the Society Islands and the next leg to Tonga and Fiji.This was followed by a very pleasant lunch at the club and then it was back to Papeete to complete revictualling, refuelling and preparations for the next 5 weeks of cruising in the islands of French Polynesia before departure for Rarotonga in the Cook Islands on 6th June.

Everyone is relishing the prospect of spending 5 weeks completing only 150 miles in some of the most beautiful islands in the world. The first of these islands in the Society Island chain is Moorea and the rally sailed the short distance to Cook's Bay to base themselves at the beautiful Club Bali Hai over the weekend of 8th and 9th May. The pace of everything immediately slowed and quite understandably the stunning surroundings of this anchorage cast a spell over everyone.

During the ensuing week people explored the tranquility and exotic mix of Polynesian sights and cultures and toured the island by hired scooters, cars and push-bikes. One impromptu highlight was a visit to the local `Alfredos' restaurant where ralliers were serenaded by `Ron' the Scottish one-man band and many singing talents were put to the test when the microphone was handed round! Well done Alistaire from `Nademia' who crooned his way through several old favourites!

With many more Tahitian feasts, dancing groups and unspoilt anchorages beckoning the next month of the rally promises to be truly relaxing... watch this space

SAFE ARRIVALS IN TAHITI - AND ON TO MOOREA

Tony Diment has reported the safe arrival of all Blue Water Rally yachts on the quayside in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti. After their Pacific Ocean crossing and several weeks gently cruising from the Marquesas through the coral atolls of the Tuamotus, Tahiti has been entirely different.

Yachts have been moored stern-to in the centre of Papeete surrounded by shops, bars and restaurants - quite a culture shock, but nonetheless it has been time for "retail therapy". The Rally has also had a traditional Tahitian Welcome from a dance group on the quayside to mark the start of their visit. The programme has also included a tour around the island in local buses decorated with local flowers. In the evenings crews have visited the "roulottes" - fast food outlets Tahitian-style.

Following a briefing and lunch at the Tahiti Yacht Club, yachts have refuelled and set off for the beautiful island of Moorea (see the photograph on our Home Page).

At last! At anchor in Nuku Hiva

Refuelling - yes Benno, it IS diesel!

Sail repairs for Nademia

The Pig Roast

4WD Tour - Cannibal's fresh meat container

Hatiheu Bay and tikis

Tahlequah arrives - Daniel's Bay

They say that every ocean crossing is different and this one was no exception. After departing from Puerto Ayora in the Galapagos, Rally yachts followed a number of different tracks across the 3,000 miles of the Pacific to their landfall at Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas Islands. Those who ventured the furthest south had generally favourable conditions after 3 or 4 days. Others experienced localised, but heavy, weather for several hours on a few days, making the voyage a tough experience, particularly for the crews sailing only two-handed.

Whatever their experience, Rally crews were all delighted to make their landfall at Nuku Hiva during the first week of April. Unlike the rest of French Polynesia, the Marquesas Islands rise out of the deepest ocean and have no surrounding coral reef. Nonetheless, the sight of green steep-to mountains rising to around 4,000 feet made a huge impact upon weary sailors as they made their final approach to Taiohae Bay, their anchorage for the next 10 days or so.

On arrival yachts were met by Peter Seymour, who responded to their VHF calls and guided them to the anchorage. Nuku Hiva is a provisional port of entry for yachtsmen arriving in French Polynesia and skippers were taken on arrival to the local gendarmerie where, somewhat unusually, immigration formalities are undertaken. The 23 kgs of vital spares brought out by Rally Control were also distributed at this point. Each crew was briefed on the local facilities which, although somewhat sparse, are nonetheless adequate for basis provisions. A highlight, of course, was the availability of French bread from the local bakeries and good food and wine (à la française) in the local restaurants. Most crews soon found their way to the 4-star Keikahanui Inn/Hotel with its sophisticated bar and dining facilities.

Refuelling and Support

Most supplies for the islands come by the 2-weekly supply ship and some yachts had to be restricted on the amount of diesel they could receive. However, the situation was soon rectified when the vessel arrived after a few days and everyone had as much diesel as they required. Some, like "Sunday" and "Ocean Song" do not, apparently, use diesel at all and refused the offer!!

Refuelling at Nuku Hiva is not the simple alongside activity experienced in European waters. The main quay suffers from serious surge and yachts have to anchor from the bow and tie up stern-to, remaining about 20 feet from the quayside. Once a yacht is firmly attached for and aft, the exercise continues with the transfer of the hosepipe from the shore and then transfer of diesel commences. We have illustrated the scene by showing a photo of "Doctor Bird" (Benno and Margrit) performing the operation - we still don't know what Benno was expecting to come out of the end of the hose!!

The three small shops managed to supply most of the crews' needs and several enthusiastic crew members even managed to get up early enough to visit the local fresh produce and fish market - at 0500 hours one morning. One Rally couple visited the local hospital for treatment, which was of a high standard - as were other services, such as the post office and Internet.

As usual in such places, new services come and go between Rallies. It was of great help to the organisers this time to find that a new facility, "Yacht Services" had appeared at the town quay. Two local French entrepreneurs and yachtsmen were offering laundry, Internet, simple mechanical engineering and sail repairs. Much use was made of the latter for basic repairs and we hope that the organisation will be there when we return in 2006.

The Rally Party

Over the years the Blue Water Rally has held a Rally party at Nuku Hiva at the Keikahanui Inn. From our first visit onwards we have received enormous support from its original owner, Rose Corser, who is known internationally as a friend and advisor to ocean yachtsmen making their landfall in the Marquesas. This year was no exception, with Rose providing a poste restante for mail, helping to organise local tours and showing crews around her museum of local history and artefacts.

Together with the management of the Keikahanui Inn, Rose helped coordinate the traditional pig roast and party at the Inn. We had expected to have the famous Nuku Hiva traditional dance group perform on the evening but, unfortunately, they had to attend Easter Mass at the Cathedral - a great disappointment to all. However, Rally crews were not disappointed by the rest of the evening. The traditional earth over was opened soon after sunset, with sumptuous smells sharpening the taste-buds of the hungry Rally throng!

The Hotel Manager, acting as MC, presented the details of the many traditional dishes as Rally participants, each wearing a floral lei, sat together at tables in the beautiful surroundings of the hotel. Throughout the evening a local string band provided background music and a great time was had by all.

Tourism

The Marquesas were the most westerly point reached by the early Polynesian explorers. Arriving by sea some 2,000 years ago, they have left their mark in numerous ways, including a local Polynesian language and a tradition of tattooing. Amongst their history was that of cannibalism and throughout the island of Nuku Hiva there are sacrificial sites. A unique atmosphere prevails.

Despite some major improvements to the roads, visiting the sites is still a great adventure, with many roads impassable except by 4x4. At the time of the Rally arrival heavy rains had caused road closures and trips across the island were always considered exciting and suitably adventurous. A favourite was the trip from Taiohae Bay across the island to Hatiheu Bay, via Taipivai made famous by Hermann Melville, who named his book, "Taipee", after the village to which he escaped from his whaling ship. En route Ralliers saw numerous examples of flora and fauna previously only seen in botanical gardens and breadfruit, grapefruit, limes etc growing in abundance.

Fantastic scenery and amazing views, with at least a dozen waterfalls to be seen at one time, impressed our intrepid yachtsmen - none more so than the descent into Hatiheu Bay at the end of their cross-island journey. This was also the point at which they were saw their first ancient village and sacrificial sites in the rainforest. Built on huge stone platforms, stepped up into the hill above the bay, was the home of thousands of early Polynesian people. Amongst the trees Ralliers were also able to see traditional sacrificial sites, where warriors captured from other villages were ritually killed, after having been kept in pits awaiting their fate.

Daniel's Bay

Most trans-Pacific yachtsmen have heard of Daniel's Bay in Nuku Hiva. Famed not only for the local Marquesan, Daniel, who lives there, but also as one of the few places where potable water can be obtained in the island. During the last day of the stopover, Rally Control organised a visit to Daniel's Bay involving several Rally yachts - some taking other crews for a day out.

The visit also was timed for the arrival of "Tahlequah" - the last Rally yacht to cross the Pacific. It was with a certain amount of emotion and a great deal of warmth that fellow-Ralliers welcomed them as they sailed direct from Puerto Ayora into Daniel's Bay to signal the end of their crossing.

For those visiting Daniel's Bay, the main highlight was the chance to trek to the second highest waterfall in the world. We were in fact very privileged in having Daniel himself (now aged 77) meet us on the beach and guide us from the local village. The journey is no easy stroll - Ralliers forded the fast-flowing river 8 times and took some 2½ hours to reach the pool at the foot of the waterfall.

Deafened by the sound of the water cascading from around 1,000 feet above them and half-submerged by torrents of water, several owners and crew swam against the current to the base of the waterfall. Others merely relaxed and absorbed the amazing scene. Another 2½ hours later, tired but happy, the group were given pomegranates and huge grapefruit to quench their thirst. They then had to negotiate the heavy swell at the landing place before taking their dinghies back to the moored yachts.

On to the Tuamotus
As usual, a main briefing was given to participants with the last arrivals receiving a one-to-one briefing before the departure of Rally Control on 12 April.

Trek to the waterfall

'Yes, it is perfectly safe'

Trekking Group

Adventurers, Liz and Carolyn

The waterfall, world's 2nd highest

Locals (with hunting dogs) offer pamplemousse

Leg Briefing - Tuamotus and Tahiti

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

We have just got back from a 4-day cruise of the Southern Islands of The Galapagos. We cannot describe how marvellous it has been. The cruise boat was very small and there were only 7 of us and a full-time guide. The food was lovely and all the long passages were overnight so you woke up in different beauty spots every day. The birdlife is absolutely fantastic. Blue-footed boobies were performing mating rituals and the males danced and spread their feathers to the sun. They trip over their own feet and the way they move their heads makes them look really shy and cute. We walked right past them, only inches away, and they showed no fear. They were prolific, but the guide said there had been a huge decline in their numbers over the past 12 years. Vermilion flycatchers were a fantastic red colour but the finches who helped Darwin so much in his work were small and insignificant. We swam with sea lions and they approach you so fast and then veer away at the last minute. The males are huge and a bit scary to be honest. We snorkelled round rocks out at sea and saw turtles, sharks, manta rays and sting rays, starfish of different colours and sizes, fish so colourful, they were like a child's picture. We were really close to penguins and all the animals are tame and incredibly beautiful. Unfortunately the water was cold (at the Equator!) but not like in the UK! .
We are seeing places we never thought we would and couldn't have put this trip off as you need to be fairly fit and agile.

But you do feel here that it is unfair on the wildlife to allow tourists such close access even though they are paying a lot. I don't think the Ecuador Gov can allow tourism indefinitely as the eco system is being threatened by them. The beaches are spectacular and one we went to had about 1000 sea lions sleeping there in family groups. Mocking birds walked through them. If you go too near the big males growl but they are really docile and never bite. They sometimes approach you for a sniff but then go back to sleep. They are a lovely sight, but a bit smelly. Baby sea lions run up and down the beach looking for their mothers, who may have been killed by sharks and no other female adopts them so they just die. The Park Rangers don't interfere. Iguanas run over your feet and we witnessed several fights over nests, which were holes in inhospitable rocks. You expect David Attenborough to pop up at any time!

Lots of the islands we went to were struggling because of wild pigs, dogs, cats, goats, donkeys, rats eating tortoise eggs or the baby boobies so the National Park Workers are shooting them to try to preserve the indigenous species. It's very sad and they are fighting a losing battle. They were all introduced by people who tried to settle here. They also brought plants which are killing off the native species. But most of the islands now have no human habitation and no one is allowed to visit so at least some of the animals get some peace and quiet.

Here in inhabited Santa Cruz, the fishermen are on strike because they want to be allowed to use modern fishing methods ie long line. If they do that, dolphins and sea lions will be the first casualties.
Must finish now to get some jobs done. Paul is cleaning the underneath of the boat which is thick with growth and barnacles which would slow us down considerably. In order to do this, he has to dive under the boat holding his breath and scrub as fast as he can. If he can't do it all we'll still have to pay someone. Paul has just emerged from under the boat and has successfully cleaned it. Hurrah!

Paul & Elizabeth, Gee Whiz

During the first week of April Paul and Elizabeth arrived safely in the Marquesas after their 3,000-mile crossing of the Pacific and can be seen taking part in the various adventures there in our report of that stopover.