`THE BEST YET' - NEWS FROM TONGA & FIJI BY TONY DIMENT

The number of times that I heard those words: `The best yet' during the Tonga and Fiji stopovers was remarkable. Partly due no doubt to the buoyant spirit within the rally but equally to the variety and appreciation of what was organised and laid-on for the rally. Nobody really knew what to expect of Tonga; what people discovered was an immensely friendly and unpretentious group of islands in the Vava'u archipelago of Northern Tonga. Tourism barely touches this remote area of the Pacific and after the sometimes bustling and exotic islands of Polynesia, everyone found it refreshing to be in the so-called `Friendly Islands' where the pace of life is less frenetic and seemingly more genuine.

The waterfront in Neiafu managed to generate its own bustle and Ana's Waterfront Cafe, The Mermaid and the Bounty Bar certainly became noisy centres of Blue Water Rally society. A `Welcoming Party' for the rally was hosted by the Tongan Visitors Bureau at the Paradise Hotel and the buffet was voted a special hit and whereas less glamorous than the `tamure' of Polynesia, the local dancing was greatly appreciated for its grace and the harmony of the accompanying singers. During the week-long stopover the rally ventured out into the local islands, to sample a Tongan Feast at Hanakauea Beach, a wonderful barbecue on the deserted and sun-drenched island of Nuku and the greatest institution of all the great `Tongan Sunday' experienced in a local church with the rafters lifted by the singing of an enthusiastic congregation.

Before the departure for Fiji there was still time for several rally yachts to participate in the local yacht race around the harbour and `Oasis' managed a very creditable second place shortly behind a very nippy local trimaran. The prize-giving afterwards at Ana's ensured that no participants went away empty-handed and judging by the number of sore-heads the next morning, many found it necessary to seek remorse shortly afterwards. No better cure than going to sea and on the morning of 24th June the fleet found themselves flying downwind in a healthy trade wind which puffed-up to 35knots in what everyone described as a `rough and confused sea'. Within 3 days the 500-mile passage to Savu Savu in Fiji was complete and a new country and culture beckoned.

The Fiji stop-over started with nearly half of the fleet being met by a club boatman in the middle of the night to be personally escorted to their assigned moorings. It was a kind gesture that was warmly appreciated by everyone. The Savu Savu Yacht Club and Waitui Club put on a fantastic 4-day programme for everyone. It started with a traditional Fijian welcoming ceremony. This involved drinking `kava' made from the root of the pepper plant and drunk from a coconut shell, sitting before the local chief. Everyone was able to judge for themselves the description given in the Rally Guide that "looks like dishwater but tastes worse"!

Savu Savu offers a taste of rural, non-touristy Fiji. The excursions organised for the rally reflected this charm: a visit to a local village and a `meke' ceremony of dance and singing and a chance to just stroll through a Fijian village and meet friendly people eager to show their homes to their visitors. Another trip involved a bus-ride to a lovely beach for wonderful snorkelling followed by a `lovo' lunch of suckling pig cooked in a ground oven, more singing, dancing and then the grand tug-of-war competition!! Boy, was that keenly contested! Needless to say the ladies team won!

The trip round to Musket Cove on the south west corner of Viti Levu, Fiji's largest island, presented an interesting choice of route: the northern route through the reef- strewn passages of Bligh Water or the slightly longer, open sea passage passing south of the island. To complicate matters, a violent storm in New Zealand sent shock-waves in the form of a 6-metre swell up into Fiji and this was superimposed on a moderate trough from the North which although not giving more than 20 knots of wind it still gave lumpy conditions, sufficient to make three of those taking the southern route put-in to Suva for respite. In all fairness, one of those seeking refuge was `Franz Too' that had developed a worrying leak from the stern-gland on the passage from Tonga and although now dry, after temporary repairs, was taking no chances. Both `Coco de Mer' and `Dutchlink' unselfishly provided moral support by keeping with Gerge Fasenfeld and his crew.

Meanwhile, Musket Cove provided the ideal venue for everyone to take time-out. Dick Smith, the owner of the resort, very kindly provided complimentary berthing for the rally in his marina and allowed everyone to use the full facilities of the resort. Probably the two highlights of the 10-day stop-over were the `Rally Fun Day' and prize-giving in the 3$(Fijian) Bar and the Rally Dinner the following day. By the 11th July it was time to complete clearance formalities and Dick Smith kindly arranged for the Customs and Immigration officials to be flown out to Musket Cove to save the Rally the trouble of returning to Lautoka to complete their departure there. `Windfall', `Franz Too' and ` Hecla' took advantage of the lift-out facilities at Vuda Point on Viti Levu before putting to sea for Vanuatu and Australia on the 12th July.

ACROSS THE DATELINE AND ON TO TONGA AND FIJI

Crossing the Dateline - Halfway Round the World

At midday on 17 June the main body of the Rally fleet crossed the Dateline. This unique experience meant that the morning Net Controller announced at the end of the Roll Call that the Rally would effectively "lose" a day. All the Rally yachts moved their clocks forward from 1030 on 17 June to a new time AND DATE of 0930 on 18 June. Apparently no one was TOO confused and the event marked the passage of Rally yachts over halfway around the world.

The Rally visits Vavau in Tonga - 20-24 June

Vavau, with its encircling waterway has one of the most beautiful harbours in the Pacific. A multitude of islands, with fjord-like passages, provide fantastic day sailing and beautiful anchorages in crystal-clear water.

Rally yachts will be checked in at the town of Neiafu and, thanks to the local management of Sunsail and Beluga Diving, Rally yachts will be provided with individual moorings in the very deep waters of Neiafu Harbour. Over the next 3 or 4 days crews will sail amongst the islands and enjoy a number of social events.

20 June Welcome Party at the Paradise Hotel

21 June Tongan Feast at Ano Beach. Yachts at anchor overnight.

22 June Beach BBQ at Nuku Beach and Visit to Swallows' Cave

Around 24 June Blue Water Rally yachts will start their clearances before setting sail towards Fiji some 450 miles to the west.

Rally Visit to the Fiji Islands - 27 June - 11 July

With only a short passage from Vavau to the easterly island of Vanua Levu in Fiji, most yachts will arrive in Fiji around 27 June. This will be the third Blue Water Rally to visit Fiji and the arrival port of Savu Savu has become very much a "home-from-home".

Savu Savu is unspoilt and off the "tourist trail". Nonetheless enterprising locals and "ex-pats" have developed the old Copra Shed into a tiny complex of shops, dive centre, café and yacht club. Always a highlight of the visit to Fiji is the opportunity to meet the locals and to sample the traditional Fijian welcome of kava drinking.

Yaqona, or kava, the Fijian national brew, is made from the root of the pepper plant mixed with water. It is given to the visitor in a communal coconut shell and drunk with one swallow. It looks like old dishwater and definitely doesn't taste as good!

The programme for Savu Savu includes tours to local villages, where participants will be expected to take gifts of kava to the local chiefs. There is also a welcome programme at the Savu Savu Yacht Club, which includes a traditional Fijian Welcome and Lovo dinner - a traditional meal cooked in a pit.

On to Viti Levu and Musket Cove

Around 1 July Rally yachts will move on from Vanua Levu to the main island of Viti Levu around 100 miles away. Rally yachts will sail around the south of Viti Levu and meet up again at Malololailai Island on its western side.

Malololailai Island is the home of the Musket Cove Resort and the Musket Cove Yacht Club. Run by friend of the Rally, Dick Smith, Musket Cove is an idyllic spot, retaining an original South Seas' charm. Dick has managed to strike a balance between visitors to his beautiful resort in the palm-fringed bay and the yachtsmen, whom he welcomes in an equally friendly fashion.

For yachtsmen Dick has created marina facilities and also has swinging moorings in the bay. Ashore yachtsmen are made welcome at the Musket Cove Yacht Club and the cost of life membership is probably the lowest in the world at only 1 dollar! Yachtsmen on passage have their visit recorded in perpetuity with the name of the yacht and its owner chiselled into the beams of the resort bar and restaurant.

However, Blue Water crews will feel particularly at home in the 3-Dollar Bar next to the dinghy landing. Here crews can yarn all day (and all night?) and all drinks cost a maximum of 3 dollars.

Highlights of the visit to Musket Cove will be the great Rally Fun Day involving beach and water sports and a prize-giving and BBQ at the 3-Dollar Bar in the evening. On 5 July participants will be entertained to a spectacular evening dinner and dance show at the resort.

On 6 July Tony Diment will give his Leg Brief for the voyage from Fiji to Cairns. However, most yachts will stay until 11 July, when clearances have been specially arranged to take place at Musket Cove rather than on the mainland.

YACHTS DEPART FOR NIUE AND TONGA

In his latest position report Mike Priest of "Dutch Link" states that yachts have started to depart from the Cook Islands en route to Tonga, where they will be met by Tony Diment in about a week's time. "Hecla" and "Dutch Link" had a very good time in the beautiful island of Aitutaki, although Mike and Jeannette managed to catch the 'flu and several others in the Rally have also caught the same "bug".

"Hecla" and "Dutch Link" left Aitutaki in grey skies, but the sun came out after a few hours and both yachts hope to be in Niue on Tuesday, 11 June. Niue will be a rendez-vous for several Rally yachts - "Franz Too", "Aquarius" and "Mon Cheri" will meet up with "Dutch Link" and "Hecla" there.

Others, such as "Coco de Mer", "Totem" and "Sea Bunny" are making for the Beveridge Reef. The Beveridge Reef is an interesting geological phenomenon - a ridge of shallow water rising thousands of feet from the ocean floor and providing a protected anchorage in mid-ocean.

Other Rally yachts are enjoying life in Rarotonga and are staying on for a day or two - "Kalypso", "Kastaway", "Oasis", "Tulipano" and "Windfall". Most will still be there on 10 June when "Blackwater" makes her delayed arrival at Rarotonga after having stayed on to enjoy the delights of Bora Bora after the departure of the rest of the fleet.

1 JUNE - YACHTS REACH COOK ISLANDS

Mike Priest reports that they had a marvellous time in the Society Islands, culminating in a last few days anchored in 2-4 metres of brilliant turquoise water above white coral sand to the SE of Bora Bora (just off Taurere). He describes it as being "absolutely magic with the impressive peaks of Bora Bora to the west and palm-covered motu to the east." Only Dutch Link and Hecla anchored there as the passage through the lagoon is only suitable for shallow drafts.

The rest of the fleet was at Bloody Mary's Restaurant near the Bora Bora Yacht Club. They have had a pleasant 2 days' sailing/drifting on the 4-day passage to the Cook Islands.

On the Move again... slowly on to Tonga

Whereas 3 yachts, namely `Blackwater', `Kastaway' and `Tulipano' are still enjoying the last of the Polynesian islands at Bora Bora, the remainder of the fleet is now at sea heading for Rarotonga in the Cook Islands en route for Tonga. There is very little wind and `Coco de Mer' reports `motoring'.

Windfall is out in front at 17deg 53South, 154 deg West and those yachts at the rear of the group are at 16 deg 40 South 152 deg West.

Photographic Competition Winners announced

Pictures in three categories - see the winners and runners-up here!

The Rally moves on to Cook's Bay Moorea

As promised in our last update Rally yachts have moved on to Cook's Bay in Moorea, 17 miles from Tahiti. Our Website Homepage depicts the scene...

The bustle and noise of Papeete have been replaced with Tahitian tranquillity amidst spectacular scenery. Hecla, Sea Bunny and Mon Cheri are berthed alongside a dock next to the Hotel Kaveka and Dutch Link, Windfall, Oasis and Kalypso are anchored in deep water close by. The Jazz and Blues Night went ahead as we reported and the crew from `Oasis' joined-in with a spectacular performance as usual.

Last night (Sunday 12th May) the Rally were due to have their Photographic Competition and Prize-giving on the Hotel Terrace with the `Oasis' crew providing live music. We'll let you know what happened as soon as we get a further report!

All Yachts in Papeete, Tahiti

All Rally yachts were happily berthed at Papeete Harbour's new quay the `Quai Bounty' by last Sunday 5th May. All, that is, except `Dutch Link' that got carried away cruising the Tuamotu Atolls and arrived on Monday afternoon just before the social programme kicked-in. At 4.00pm the Tourist Board served Tahitian cocktails, presented lei garlands and Tahitian dancing as a welcome. This was followed by more cocktails at 6.00pm in the garden of the French Military Commander's residence with more dancing. The whole evening, conducted in such a beautiful tropical setting was warmly appreciated by all of the participants.

On Tuesday 7th May, two `Trucks' or Tahitian coaches, took the Rally for a conducted tour of the Island of Tahiti, courtesy of the Tourist Board. The tour included Venus Point where Captain Cook built an observatory to record the passage of Venus (and thus write his own almanac for future navigation), waterfalls, the Gauguin Museum ( not a single Gauguin picture) and a nearby restaurant for lunch.

Everyone is enjoying being back in `civilisation' after their extensive cruising of the Tuamotus which they all loved - many lady crew members are apparently now sporting the famed black pearls of Tahiti that are farmed in the Tuamotus. Several male crew members, not to be out-done, are sporting Tahitian tattoos! The colour and bustle of Papeete's waterfront, the wonderful market and the convenience of modern shopping on their doorstep are in vivid contrast to the unspoilt cruising grounds with which everyone has been experiencing since leaving the Marquesas Islands over a month ago.

Next week the Rally moves on to Moorea, just 17 miles away and starts to taste the real, exotic Tahiti. First stop will be in Cook's Bay followed by adjacent Oponuhu Bay which both must be amongst the most dramatic anchorages in the world. They are both tucked inside the crystal waters of the island's fringe reef and surrounded in steeply wooded pinnacle-topped mountains. There is a change of venue from the Bali Hai Club Hotel (which is undergoing refurbishment) to the Kaveka Hotel waterfront which has a quay for dinghies, a little beach and of course a bar and a restaurant. The Rally's Photo competition will be judged at a Jazz & Blues evening scheduled for next Sunday 12th May. After that its off cruising again; this time through the Society Islands - Huahine, Raietea, Tahaa and the Tahitian gem of Bora Bora. Its tough for some...

YACHTS ARRIVE IN TAHITI

With the arrival of Peter Seymour, the Rally Director for the stopover, the Tahiti programme got under way on 3 May. All Rally yachts have safely arrived and are moored on the new yacht quay - The Quai Bounty, making a colourful sight "dressed overall" as a response to the warm welcome of their hosts. Yachts are now completing their arrival formalities as Tahiti is the official port of entry for French Polynesia.

A number of yachts have technical problems and are glad of the excellent local engineering facilities and to be on an international air route for the provision of spares. "Coco de Mer" is awaiting a new generator and when the owner of "Franz Too" returns on 11 May, the crew will be hard at work for several days with water-maker and other repairs.

Most crews have already found that excellent "institution" - the "Roach Coaches". Each evening "fast food caravans" arrive on the nearby quayside and provide an outstanding selection of oriental-style meals to hungry yachtsmen at bargain prices. As this is France - well, nearly - there are even stalls serving crêpes and other delicacies as dessert!

Papeete has probably the best fresh food and vegetable market in the whole of the Pacific. It has not taken long for crews to stock up with a wide range of fresh vegetables and exotic tropical fruit. Not far away are also two large supermarkets where everything, including French cheese and wine, can be obtained - at a price!

Crews also have a busy social and tourism programme starting on Monday 6 May with a traditional Dance of Welcome provided by beautiful Polynesian maidens and local musicians on the quayside. Later that evening crews will be welcomed to an informal drinks party kindly given by the local French Naval Commander.

On Tuesday 7 May everyone will have a day tour of the island of Tahiti, kindly provided by the local tourist board, Tahiti Tourisme. The tour will take in the island's beautiful coastal and mountain scenery and stop at some stage at the Gauguin Museum. For many this will be their first experience of the ubiquitous "truc" - the local bus service comprising open-sided vehicles ("air-conditioned"??)

Later in the week there is to be a briefing on the next leg of the Rally and an informal Rally lunch at the Tahiti Yacht Club. On Saturday 11 May most yachts will sail for the fabled island of Moorea and anchor in Cook's Bay - featured on the front page of our website and also in the films "Mutiny on the Bounty" and "South Pacific".

ENGLISH CRICKET TEAM LOSES AGAIN! (from Tony Diment)

On Thursday 4th April just about every yacht on the Rally weighed anchor and sailed round to Daniel's Bay for a picnic lunch. The outing was a tremendously relaxing and good hearted day out and was capped by a game of English cricket on the beach. Predictably the English XI lost to the International XI !! After a great day of barbecuing and swimming most of the Rally sailed the 6 miles back to Taiohae although a handful of yachts decided to spend the night in this spectacular anchorage, completely encircled by high mountains.

With the arrival of 'Dutchlink' on Saturday morning 6th April, the whole of the Blue Water Rally fleet was safely in Taiohae Bay Nuku Hiva. Mike and Jeannette Priest and Claire MacRowan although tired from their long passage from the Galapagos were in good spirits and given a really warm welcome on Saturday night at the Rally Party. A traditional Marquesan welcome with drumming and singing Ma,Eva (Welcome) preceded a Marquesan Feast. The highlight of the party was undoubtedly the exciting dancing performed by local 'warriors' and the spontaneous accompaniment of everyone on the Rally singing along with the mandolin and guitar minstrels that were part of the musical support.

This report is written on Monday morning 8th April as the village is buzzing with Blue Water Ralliers eager to stock up before leaving later today for Ua Pou (a Marquesan Island 25 miles away) and the Touamoto Islands. Having been fully briefed for the next leg of their adventure, tomorrow will see everyone back at sea sailing in nearly cloudless skies and very hot temperatures bound for the fabled island of Tahiti.

THE FLEET ARRIVES IN NUKU HIVA

The first arrivals at Nuku Hiva were on Good Friday 29th March with passages of 17 days being made by Kalypso and Blackwater - which represents an averge speed of 7.4 knots over the distance of 3050 miles from the Galapagos Islands.

All yachts except Dutchlink are now safely at anchor in Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. Dutchlink plans to arrive on Saturday afternoon 6th April. Mike, Jeannette and Claire have been plagued with various generator, windvane and fuel pump problems and a considerable number of goose barnacles on their hull that have conspired to make for slow progress. They may be assured of a hearty welcome on Saturday when hopefully they will be at the Rally Party. Everyone has received a wonderful welcome with Leis or flower garlands being given to everyone as a traditional Polynesian welcome.

The weather is unseasonally dry with absolutely no rain throughout March which is normally the wettest month of the year ! Sailing breezes have been near perfect with a number of yachts flying spinnakers day and night in 10 to 15 knots trade winds and flat seas. Today,the 4th April, everyone is off by yacht to Daniels Bay for a Rally picnic on the beach - its a hard life! The only down side is that the nono fly is out and about - made more prevalent by the dry, hot weather. Most of the Rally will start cruising the Marquesas Islands on Sunday 7th April en route to the Touamotos and Tahiti

SUPPORT TEAM ARRIVES IN NUKU HIVA

Tony Diment, Rally Director for the Marquesas stopover, has now arrived in Nuku Hiva to greet the yachts. He'll be kept busy over the coming days handling immigration arrangements, refuelling of the yachts (although not much fuel should be required after such excellent sailing!) and a myriad of other elements of Rally support. High on his list of priorities is to hand over a new propellor to Totem (Pierpaolo and Anna Appiani) and to have it fitted. He is also carrying a heavy load of other spares and items for owners throughout the Rally. One of the crew of Windfall will be particularly pleased to receive the passport he left behind in the Galapagos Islands, which has come through a circuitous route across 3 continents!

GALAPAGOS REPORT - PART II

On 10 March the 26 intrepid passengers on "Aida Maria" and "Rumba" returned to Puerto Ayora after their 4-day voyage around the Islands. Manned by crews from "Kalypso", "Aquarius", "Windfall", "Mon Cheri", "Franz Too", "Hecla" and "Dutch Link" and the Rally Secretary the cruise boats visited 6 islands (Floreana, Espanola, Santa Fe, Plazas, North Seymour and Santa Cruz).

At Post Office Bay (Floreana) crews viewed postcards left in the barrel "postbox" - the original post office used by sailors as they passed the Islands in bygone years.  Participants were delighted - and amazed - that the wildlife was so approachable. Perhaps even the reverse, with the wildlife showing their own curiosity in the humans who stood watching them! There were magical moments as the sealions - and the occasional turtle - swam around and between them as Rally members snorkelled in turquoise bays. 

Participants were full of praise for the boat crews and the ever-helpful and knowledgeable guides. Although the boats had seen "better days" and this was a "budget" cruise, this did not detract from a highly enjoyable and fun experience.

This was not the only option - some took a luxury cruise and were totally satisfied, while others took day trips on the excellent "Delphin". Even with only a short time available, they gained more than a glimpse of the flora and fauna of the Galapagos. Others with Scuba qualifications enjoyed some of the most amazing dives that they had ever accomplished. Galapagos is said to be the only place in the world where, when people shout "SHARK", people jump INTO the water and not OUT!!! However, only later are divers told why Galapagos sharks are supposed to be vegetarian. The vegetarian diet referred to is "planta" (Spanish for sole of the foot), "roots" of the hair and "palms" of the hands!!

Not only were there trips afloat, but two outings were organised into the interior of Santa Cruz Island. Participants were delighted to have the opportunity to see wild giant tortoises, including one magnificent 150-year old specimen, who was moving v-e-e-e-ery slowly down, but purposefully, towards the lowlands and his mating site!! The trip also took in wonderful views of the Island and a 500-metre scramble through ancient lava tubes.

Visitors to this web site will wish to see further photographs in our Photo Galleries Section (CENTRAL AMERICA). Those with a wider interest in the flora and fauna of Darwin's "Enchanted Isles" are strongly recommended to visit the web site www.galapagos.org