Note : for previous reports, see our Report Archive.

TAHITI AND MOOREA - A GREAT STOPOVER (from Peter Seymour)

I have managed to send some stories and pictures from Tahiti and, more recently, some of our story from Moorea. I have now been able to assemble some photographs, which may help to tell more of the story of the Blue Water Rally visit to these amazing places.

Tahiti - Work, Play and Farewells

Plenty of activity
Our programme in Tahiti organised by Tahiti Tourisme has already been reported and much make and mend continued with the help of various local contractors. However, there was time each evening for Ralliers to eat out in the unique style of the Roulottes (fondly known as the Roach Coaches). Each night fast food vans opened up on a specially paved area close to the yacht quay and drew large numbers of Rally crews to dine out both cheaply and well. Others discovered restaurants in town, notably the Three Brasseurs - a pub restaurant which does, indeed, brew its own beer on its own premises. There were also daily visits to the amazing public market in Papeete - the largest and best in the South Pacific.

Thank you to the Yacht Club
During the build-up to the stopover we organisers have received an enormous amount of help from our friends at the Tahiti Yacht Club. In particular the Club Secretary/Manager, Michel Alcon, has been a close friend of ours for over 12 years and each day came to the pontoons to deliver mail and to offer assistance. I was, therefore, delighted to be able to present a Blue Water Rally plaque to the Yacht Club President, Jean Sjilyagi, and a much more personal gift to Michel Alcon (illustrated!)

A sad farewell to Reinhard and Sheila
The Blue Water Rally always creates strong bonds of friendship. It was therefore with great sadness that we had to bid farewell to Reinhard and Sheila Baildon of Blue Raven, who had reluctantly decided to leave the Rally at Tahiti for family reasons. We wish them fair winds and happy cruising over the coming months until their return to the UK late this year.

On to Moorea!
Most yachts departed Papeete last Saturday for the short crossing to Cook's Bay in Moorea, although several were forced to stay for work which was still in hand. Nonetheless, there was a gathering of over 20 yachts at the rendezvous anchorage at the head of the bay close to the Rally HQ, The Club Bali Hai Hotel.

The Bali Hai Hotel has been our base for all our 6 previous Rallies and extended their usual warm welcome to myself and to the crews whenever they came ashore. Many took advantage of the excellent breakfasts and lunches in the hotel restaurant and briefings were held there on two mornings covering cruising through the islands and onward to Tonga.

Getting around, a Welcome Return and a BBQ and Dance Show
The island of Moorea has much to offer the tourist and Ralliers were soon getting around by rented scooters and cars, whilst others did it the somewhat harder way - by bike or on foot. In fact a strong walking group left early one morning to hike to the Belvedere - the viewpoint at over 2000 feet overlooking Oponohu and Cook's Bays. Some slight navigational error led to the trip taking somewhat longer than expected, but I can report that they all arrived back smiling 7 hours later and the Bali Hai bar was kept very busy!

Yachts always have their problems and on this Rally Ian and Lesley Bloom (Tapestry) seem to have had more than their fair share. My colleague, Tony Diment, took a gearbox to them in Nuku Hiva, but their problems continued there and they were only able to catch up with the rest of the fleet in Moorea. The welcome was warm and Ian and Lesley were immediately made to feel part of the family again. Rapidly cleared in and with technical support being organised in Tahiti, we hope that their problems will soon be fully resolved.

During our stay in Moorea it's a Rally tradition that we enjoy a BBQ and Dance Show at the Bali Hai Hotel. A great evening was had by all and we were delighted to learn that Eric and Marianne Plante's daughter, Rosemarijn, had become engaged to Marcel that day. We wish them every happiness.

On through the islands to Bora Bora
Over the next three weeks Rally yachts will be cruising independently to Bora Bora for their rendezvous around 25 May. There will be no position reporting and we shall start to update you nearer that time.

RALLIERS CHILL OUT IN MOOREA

After a busy week of activities both on and off the water in Tahiti most of the fleet managed to leave the hustle and bustle for the waters of Cook's Bay in Moorea some 9 miles away.  Cook's Bay named after Captain Cook, who visited the bay and the next door bay of Oponohu about 300 years ago.  Rally yachts have been anchored at the head of the bay next to the atmospheric Bali Hai Hotel, whose palm-fronded restaurant and facilities have become a home from home for the Rally.

We have been given an extremely warm welcome here for this our seventh visit.  Most crews have been renting mopeds and cars to tour this beautiful tropical island.  However, most impressive have been the exploits of the Blue Water Rally hiking goup, who set off the other morning at 0700 for an 7-hour walk to the Belvedere and return through the rainforest.  (The Belvedere offers the most amazing view of the two bays which make Moorea so famous and this viewpoint is set amongst near vertical mountain faces at over 2000 feet.)  In the evenings local canoe teams have been practising and have streamed past our anchored yachts as the crews enjoy their "sundowners" in this most beautiful of anchorages.  In fact, Brian Baker of "Our Island", who has circumnavigated previously and is sailing with us this time, believes that Cook's Bay is the most beautiful of all in the South Pacific.  I am sure that no one here disagrees.

One of the traditional functions that the Blue Water Rally enjoys in the South Pacific is the BBQ and Dance Show here at the Bali Hai Hotel.  Last night male and female dancers in traditional dress entertained Rally crews on the lawn of the hotel at sunset to the sound of a musical group of drums and guitars.  The evening concluded with a superb choice of BBQ'd meat and seafood dishes served on the wooden deck over the water in front of our anchored yachts.

There have been 2 optional briefings for skippers in preparation for their cruise through these magical Iles Sous le Vent (Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora).  Yachts will be cruising slowly towards Bora Bora for a rendezvous around 25 May.

I am unable to send pictures at present, but these will follow soon after 8 May.  Peter Seymour.

A VIP WELCOME AND LOTS OF FUN IN TAHITI

Early on Monday 21 April I had a VHF call from the first group of 10 arrivals at Papeete, the capital of Tahiti. Twelve years ago I remember our Rally arriving on the new yacht quay and a grand opening by the President of French Polynesia. This time our yachts arrived to find newly-installed pontoons, with water and electricity. The authorities made a major effort to welcome us to Tahiti once more - on this our seventh visit. Over the 21st and 22nd the Rally fleet assembled on the quayside and have been busy ever since with make and mend, placing some heavy demands on local resources. However, there has been time for social and tourist activities.

Welcome activities - a fun afternoon

Over the years we have great support from our friends of Tahiti Tourisme and for several months they have been planning a programme for us. Opening the proceedings was an afternoon of water-borne activities and shoreside displays close to the yacht quay. Most popular amongst our crews was the opportunity to experience the centuries old tradition of canoe racing. A small fleet of outrigger canoes, complete with local vahines (local girls) in traditional dress, stood by to take Ralliers out into the bay. I cannot divulge whose was the fastest time of the day, but great fun was had by all. What was particularly impressive was the appearance of a traditional sailing pirogue, which enabled some to experience a form of transport introduced by the early Polynesian explorers.

A VIP welcome for the Rally

As a tribute to the friendship Blue Water Rallies have established with Tahiti and French Polynesia we were greatly honoured at a cocktail party hosted by several VIPs. In particular there were speeches of welcome from the French Vice President of French Polynesia, the Mayor of Papeete and the Director of Tourism and several government ministers were in attendance.

I was delighted to reply on behalf of the Blue Water Rally and to present to the Vice President a memento of this, our seventh visit.

The highlight of the evening was dancing by a young dance group led by Gabilou, a celebrated international singer from French Polynesia.

A day out - around the island

The formal programme continued on Wednesday with a coach tour for over 70 participants around the island of Tahiti. The day included visits to various tourist spots, including the Gauguin Museum and Venus Point made famous by Captain Cook, who took his sights there. There was a magnificent lunch at the Gauguin Restaurant and even a demonstration of the local sport of spear throwing.

Today (Friday) we are going to lunch at the Tahiti Yacht Club, which will make a fitting end to our visit to Tahiti. Over the weekend Rally yachts will start to leave Papeete and head for Cook's Bay in Moorea.

More news and pictures later...........

CRUISING TO TAHITI

Following Tony Diment’s report (below) we have heard that the rigger did, indeed, arrive and assessed Zippadedodas rig as safe and a new boom and associated parts have been been ordered for delivery in Papeete. We are now keeping our fingers crossed that Tapestry will soon be underway following the arrival of her spares by hand of a crew member arriving from the UK.

Relaxed and refreshed, most crews left Nuku Hiva during the first week of April for their next major destination, Tahiti.  The leg covers the Tuamotus Archipelago, sometimes known as the “Dangerous Archipelago” - a reminder of the near loss there of “Gipsy Moth IV” during our last Rally in April 2006.

Onwards through the Dangerous Archipelago

The Tuamotus atolls with their crystal-clear waters extend in a broad band for some 1,000 miles across the direct route to Tahiti.  Each coral atoll rises barely more than 6 feet above sea level, may be difficult to see more than a mile or so offshore and are dangerous to approach at night.  They vary in size from being small islets barely 100 metres across to huge reef-surrounded lagoons up to 30 miles across, such as Rangiroa.  Chart and GPS positions  differ in this area, so Mark1 Eyeball Navigation is essential.

 
The atolls may be considered similar to a saucer, with the rim being the emerging reefs, or “motus” as they are called in Polynesia.   The necklace of coral making up this rim is separated in places by deep passes, through which the tide rushes back and forth, sometimes at speeds of up to 8 knots.

General advice is only to navigate between 1000 hours and 1600 hours when the sun is high and isolated coral heads may be easily seen.  The rule is to approach with the sun behind and someone keeping a good lookout from the crosstrees or the bow of one’s yacht. Rally yachts also share information over VHF radio as to the state of the flow through these passes, but someone has to be first in to the anchorage!

Black Pearls and a slower pace for the Rally

Crews have now found that the pace of the Rally has considerably slowed down and most have nearly 3 weeks in these idyllic surroundings before arriving in Tahiti. There are so many wonderful experiences to be had that we repeatedly hear that crews really are sailing their dream. They have discovered magical lagoons with spectacularly clear waters and amazing snorkelling and scuba diving in the passes.  They have met local fishermen and their families and, of course, learnt something of the world of black pearl farming.

By 9 April Heidenskip, Jenny and Hakuna Matata were in the fabulous small atoll of Manihi and shortly to be joined by Rascal, Stargazer, Big Blue, Zipadedoda, Marianne and Anahi.  Manihi is famous for its traditional black pearl fisheries which supply the most prestigious of jewellers worldwide, yet Ralliers will find special bargains by their direct interaction with the local people. We expect a lot of these exotic jewels to be on show over the coming months!

Blue Water Rally skippers have a wide variety of options for their cruise through the Tuamotus. There are almost direct routes with just a few atolls to visit whilst some crews will be voyaging “off the beaten track” to the many smaller atolls which seldom see visiting yachts and where life is still relatively unspoilt. Arrival around 21 April in Tahiti with its busy, sophisticated lifestyle will be a real contrast!

The Marquesas Islands Stopover – a quick summary

The over-riding and popular message for everyone in Nuku Hiva was that “ the pace of things now slows down”!  After a pretty frenetic transit of the Panama Canal, some difficult weather en route to the Galapagos and the concentrated nature of the excursions, everyone was ready for a good quick passage with good sailing to the Marquesas Islands some 3000+ miles to the West. After getting through the area of calms surrounding the Galapagos Islands yachts found themselves on the `conveyor belt’ of the South East Trades. When I met many of the yachts arriving in Nuku Hiva after their passages just about everyone recorded quicker passages than their Atlantic crossings with a good number completing the passage in 16 to 20 days. Certainly many yachts experienced up to a week or more of consistent 15 to 20 kts winds when very little sail trimming was necessary and the miles just reeled off at 160 to 180 per day ( the best was 220 miles in one day – something of a record!).  With three weeks to enjoy the Marquesas and Tuamotus before a week in Papeete (Tahiti), a week in Moorea and a further 2 weeks to explore the Society Islands to Bora Bora the rally has time to enjoy some enviable times ahead.

However, there are some yachts with considerable maintenance/ breakages to deal with. Ian and Lesley on `Tapestry’ with their gearbox problems which now requires a additional clutch part have not allowed their problems to dampen their spirits and `Zipadedoda’ have stoically set about the business of replacing their boom after their serious gybe in the latter stages of their passage. Having spoken to David and Jenny about the gybe, they recalled to me how lucky they had been not to have suffered greater damage or personal injury. A rigger from Papeete was arriving aboard `Zippy’ to assess the impact of any further damage just as I departed Nuku Hiva and hopefully they will be able to `limp’ to Tahiti where specialist repairs will be at hand. Similarly `Cayuco’ has a handful of problems but Tony Walter with his engineering skills appears to have matters well under control and as I departed, various shroud and chainplate fabrications were being manufactured.

The accompanying photographs capture some of the high spots of the stopover: the French Polynesian `welcomes’ the music and dancing, pig roast feasts, walks through mountains to the waterfalls of Hakatea and the overland excursions to Hati Heu  to the North of Nuku Hiva to visit ancient `tiki’ sites and an exquisite lunch at `Chez Yvonne’ are memorable.

Now a complete contrast from mountains tumbling into the sea awaits the rally  – the flat atolls of the Tuamotus beckon with their teeming fish life and crystal waters. Careful pilotage amongst shallow coral reefs will now be the name of the game…

Images from Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands submitted by Rally Director Tony Diment

FIRST ARRIVALS IN POLYNESIA

Easter Sunday 23rd March. There are now five yachts in Nuku Hiva and everyone is telling me (Tony Diment) about the great sailing that they have had - “I didn’t have to trim the sails for five days”, “ been sailing like a train”, “averaging 9 knots for 3000miles” etc, etc. Great to hear! The delay in more arrivals not having made it here yet is due to late starts from the Galapagos, but the main bulk of the fleet has only about 500/600 miles  to run and is expected to arrive by Thursday of this week (27th March). Over half of the rally has spare parts awaiting them, that have been brought from UK for them, including a complete gearbox for `Tapestry’!  An `early arrivals welcome’ was held last night at the Keikahanui Pearl Lodge and our photograph shows the crews from `Heidenskip’, `Talismano’, `Pelle V’ and ` Our Island’ shortly after receiving their `leis’ or welcoming  garlands. `Lousill’ arrived in Taiohae Bay just a couple of hours late to enjoy the evening but their turn will come on Tuesday when another similar evening is planned. `Gaia’, at 34ft and the smallest yacht on the rally, has done magnificently and is due in this evening. Some yachts have temporarily stopped off in Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa and are expected to arrive in Nuku Hiva within the next few days. Next arrivals are expected to be `Marianne’ on Monday 24th March followed closely by `Miss Styx’, `Penelope III’ and maybe `Big Blue’.

Coming at the end of a 3000-mile passage across the Pacific Ocean, the high, green mountains of the Marquesas are always a welcome sight for our Blue Water Rally yachtsmen.  Although some crews will visit other islands first, their main destination is Taiohae Bay in Nuku Hiva.

The Marquesas have been the crossroads for Polynesian and European explorers over the centuries and there is much evidence of the early Polynesians who landed in the islands many centuries ago.  In the interior of Nuku Hiva can be found many ancient Tiki sites and rocks carved with petroglyphs (pictures cut into the rock).

The Tiki sites are clear proof of cannibalism – warring villages would capture warriors in battle and then sacrifice them on stone platforms guarded by Tikis, the carved stone statues of their gods.  Blue Water Ralliers will be taking tours into the wild interior of Nuku Hiva and will visit several of these sites during their stay.  Nuku Hiva has a special “atmosphere” and some historians believe that cannibalism died out only a few decades ago.  Local people still bear the body tattoos with ancient designs carried by their warrior forefathers and canoe racing is evidence of a maritime heritage. 

Many famous European explorers, such as Bougainville (who gave his name to the plant) and Cook, passed this way.  In more recent times Herman Melville called at Nuku Hiva and his book, “Taipee”, was inspired by his visit to the village of Taipivai, a short distance from the Rally anchorage in Taiohae Bay and his memorial stands at the head of the bay.

With so much early history to investigate the Rally programme at Nuku Hiva includes opportunities for crews to visit the ancient sites by 4-wheel drive and to soak up some of the special ambience of the island.  A favourite visit is to Hatiheu Bay across the mountainous interior to the other side of Nuku Hiva.  Here Ralliers will enjoy a special seafood lunch amidst spectacular scenery.  (Photo on our Home Page.)

A Blue Water Rally tradition is for crews to sail a few miles along the coast to Daniel’s Bay, made famous by a local of the same name, who used to live in a beach hut there and who provided fresh, clean drinking water from his own spring to our yachtsmen.  Daniel has sometimes guided our crews on an amazing trek to a nearby waterfall – acknowledged as the third highest in the world.

The Rally Programme

As each yacht arrives Rally Director, Tony Diment, will meet crews and they will be presented with the traditional lei marking their arrival in French Polynesia.  There will be celebration dinners and the local population are arranging a special welcome event on the tiny fishermen’s quay.  There will also be a Leg Briefing for skippers covering the next leg of the voyage through the Tuamotus Islands to Tahiti.

Despite the apparent isolation of the Marquesas there are basic engineering facilities and there will be much “make and mend” to be done before the Blue Water Rally crews move on towards Tahiti.  There is also going to be a busy refuelling programme organised by Tony – a slightly complex operation against a quayside designed for the local inter-island freighter.

Relaxed and refreshed crews will be planning to leave Nuku Hiva during the first week of April.